As previously mentioned, we will no longer be taking 30 hour buses across countries to get to our destinations. The next stop being Chiang Mai, we were delighted to board our Nok Air flight from Udon Thani, a short stress free border crossing (learnt from our previous mistakes in Nam).

The first thing we sorted out when we arrived was an action packed day of elephant trekking where I managed to be that annoying tourist by stupidly asking 'is elephant trekking just trekking...with elephants?'. That was followed by some bemused looks and then some white water rafting, jungle trekking to a waterfall for a swim and a random stop at an orchid farm with butterflies. We were picked up bright and early and set off to the foothills of the Himalayas an hour north of Chiang Mai where we met Simyam; a 5 motnth pregnant, hormonal, weak bladdered, hungry, 3 ton elephant. She was magnificent. We rode for few kilometres until they stopped to rest. In the first 5 minutes she refused to budge until we had fed her all of the bananas and sugar cane we had and when she was satisfied she took what can only be described as the worlds longest wee and we set off. It was an amazing experience. Next up with we trekked through the midday heat deep into the jungle where we eventually came to a pretty 30ft waterfall where we were some of the few brave tourists who took a well deserved dip in the freezing fresh mountain spring. After a couple if near mishaps with Sai's bikini top in the waterfall, we hopped out and walked back to the camp in time for some white water rafting. Kitted out with helmets and life jackets we knew they weren't messing around and quite rightly so. The instructors plonked us at the top of the raft and demonstrated how to avoid flying out through the rapids. In broken English we heard from the back of the boat '5 minute, very rapids'.... We knew it was too late to turn back and held on for our lives - me screaming louder than the 5 girls in my raft. That evening, still alive, we decided to go and check out some local Muay Thai boxing as it was our last chance in Thailand. Armed with our beers we got ringside seats, inches from the action. The first few fights were a little worrying when the MC announced that the fighters were 14. As the fighters got older the matches became more brutal although we were both amazed by the speed and strength.

Laili's Birthday!......after kicking things off in true style with a Macdonalds birthday breakfast in bed we checked out of our guesthouse (good riddance) and into Chiang Mai's top Spa hotel, the Rarinjinda. Greeted from our tuk tuk by staff carrying our bags we were handed ice towels and fresh coconuts to drink. Safe to say we were the only backpackers staying there, I would later prove this point by bombing the lush pool in the pouring rain. With my pockets filled with complimentary fruit from the lobby, we headed straight out to meet some beautiful little 5 month old tiger cubs who were as playful as mischievous as you'd expect - one taking a liking to Sai's bangles and pouncing on her to reach them.

We got back to our hotel just in time for our afternoon of spa treatments where Sai was pampered, cleaned, scrubbed, oiled and various other things I didn't know existed while I settled for a massage which was delightful. Feeling totally refreshed we got down to business in the hotel room, birthday present business. As per my prior request, the hotel delivered Sai's lovely birthday cake and x2 Margaritas just in time to open all of the beautiful cards from the girls... I had to fetch some tissues during Shireens and they certainly were not for Sai. We finished the day in style at a lovely riverside restaurant braving the tables under the canopy despite the huge thunderstorm that replaced the usual snow we all enjoy so much on Sai's birthday.