Rotorua is the first place in New Zealand that has a strong Maori presence. Partly because one of the girls I got off the bus with got shouted at by a crazy man with the full Maori face tattoos. But mostly because we went to a Maori village 'experience'. It was really good, watched the hakka and ate a feast that had been cooked under ground. The evening was made by the amazing driver of the 70s bus who knew hello in every language going and even managed to crack out the Japanese national anthem.

Over the road from our hostel is a park with thermal pools. There was water steaming and mud bubbling, very surreal. Warning for any visitors to Rotorua, it stinks. The sulphur from all the thermal activity can be toxic to the genteel nose.

I'd hoped to go to Waitomo whilst here to visit the glow worm caves but the bus was cancelled (spot a theme yet???). So, as a proper traveller would do, I thought on my feet and hired a car! Along with Louisa and Alice from the kiwi bus I got a car and drove the 2 hrs to Waitomo. I successfully killed no one. At Waitomo caves we went black water rafting on rubber rings. It was soooo good! Even though we froze rigid, floating through the caves in the pitch black looking at the glow worms was magical. How is it possible to keep seeing such amazing things???

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