Were glad to leave Delhi behind us! Met our driver Ali on morning of 18.11.06, he bought a new (old) TATA Indicar specially the day before, looks a bit like a Corsa. He paid 1600 pounds for it, rip off!! Dents, scratches, lenses cracked, no mirrors, but Ali thinks he's got a good deal!! Just hope it goes 1200 miles before it packs up!!

Left for 120 mile journey to Agra at about 8am. Stopped for curry at 10am for breakfast - can't believe Lauren ate curry at that time of day!! Jim quite used to it - takeaway leftovers!! About an hour later Ali's 1600 pound was showing its true colours - a puncture!! Jim and Ali changed wheel at side of road while Loz looked out for cobras!! Back on road and next village found tyre shed (Indian style!) with chisel, hammer and two inner tubes (one inside another) somehow inflated the tyre! Back on the road again, arrived at Agra about 2pm and checked in nice hotel (complete with minibar! this is more like it!) No wonder the Taj Mahal is a wonder of the world - amazing!! Spent 3hrs there with guide showing us how it was built and all the best photo angles and most importantly the famous chair!! (First Charles & Di, next Jim & Loz!). How can a building make you speechless!!

Next morning left hotel for Ranthambhore National Park, this is where tigers, leopards, monkeys, deer, birds and crocodile can roam around in park size of inside M25! Took 8hrs down bumpy single lane road for cars, trucks, tractors, cows, goats, tuk-tuks, people to fight over. Finally arrived and checked into safari-type lodge. Up at 5am next morning to get first light in park and hopefully see the tigers! Unfortunately due to hunting there are only 26 tigers left, and we didn't see any of them! Just their footprints! Saw lots of birds, monkeys and deer though! And a couple of crocs! Guide was hilarious, but didn't mean to be, English poor and liked to state the obvious once we'd pointed out animals! Also saw giraffe halfway round as we had a toilet stop (only if you were brave enough to get out truck!), then realised it was Jim peering into truck from outside! Nice to see they are trying to preserve the wildlife here! Had a chance to go again in the afternoon but didn't and guess what, they saw tigers!! Gutted!! We were too busy topping up tans in garden and drinking Kingfisher! Had group of wildlife fanatics in hotel - every time bird cheeped in trees out came binoculars and notebooks!! How sad! Jim spent afternoon making bird sounds to get them all excited!!

Next day left for Jaipur, capital of Rajasthan, supposed to be much prettier there! Took about 4hrs but better roads. Arrived in more modern city and checked into hotel about 3pm. Spent afternoon sightseeing and shopping (much to Jim's dismay!). Jaipur famous for textiles, jewellery and painting/crafts so had to oblige! Bought bit of each - hard sellers, and Loz an easy target!! Next to restaurant for dinner complete with dancers, good food (best so far actually) and good dancing. Never thought i'd be able to stomach two curries a day but makes curry at home seem rubbish!! Have to get Shah (Abbots Tandoori) on case for authentic food when we get back!!

Spent next day at Amber Fort (rode up on elephant - highlight of Lauren's day!) with pretty boring guide for a long two hours! Longer he talked, bigger tip, he thought!! We had different ideas, boring talk, small tip!! Next to Tiger Fort, Maharaja palace for 9 wives with interconnecting corridor so he could choose a different wife each night (James said why not have them all in same room - much more fun!) Better guide and good pictures - including Kama Sutra decor!

During the last couple of days we decided that 5 weeks here is too long so on 27.11.06 we leave Mumbai to fly to Kuala Lumpur. Will then get to Oz in time for Christmas (Aaron - how does that compare!!). Really glad we're here but highly recommend coming with organised tour as hard to backpack here, especially as we were backpack virgins!! Lots to see and experience but conditions make it difficult to do by yourself. We don't realise how lucky we are at home (hot water, proper toilets, clean streets and money to live on), has certainly opened our eyes!

Our time in India has been helped by Ali, our new friend. He has driven us, entertained us, kept us safe and believe me, where we stay compared to the tourists we need him!! His English is ok - Jim has been teaching him important phrases "cor blimey" "any chance" "cheers mate" "time for a beer" and of course they all know the Del Boy classic "lovely jubbly"! Will tell you more about him when left India.

Taken lots of great pictures, they'll come when we get to Malaysia, the computers here just about type let alone anything flashy like downloading!

Must go now, time for yet another curry!! This will be our 12th in seven days! Should arrive in Malaysia early with all that tail wind!! jim just let one go for practise - nice!

Hope all is well in England, haven't seen a cloud yet, have you?

Lots of love Jim & Loz xxx