(Em writing now).

Today we are staying at Sumiyoshi Ryokan, which is very expensive at Y27,000 for both of us, dinner and breakfast included. Its full of antiques, and our hosts are so kind and smiling, literally walking halfway up the street to give directions! Theres lots of bowing, am getting the hang of it now.

Anyway Loz's blog is so good and seeing as I am typing it anyway I feel like theres not much to add. The onsen complex was brilliant - this part of the culture is making　Japan very appealing as a place to stay (in addition to everything else too!) Walking round naked is a liberating and nice experience, I wish people in the UK weren't so　funny about it (don't worry I have not become a naturist yet). It is certainly an experience though I'm not sure Loz has enjoyed sharing baths with naked men as much - the ones we've been to so far have been separate sex.

Our food last night was brilliant -Hida beef (marbled and exceptionally tender) with rice, salad,miso soup, with some　wine and sake - which was much nicer than expected, and it also put a strange grin on my face.

Tonight's meal and service was truly amazing although not particularly to my taste - about 12 separate dishes of fish in varying states of rawness, pickled veg and unidentifiable things, yellow flower?, deep fried veg and fish, shrimps all squidgy with horrid beady eyes, too many mushrooms, braised fish with a texture so slimy I found it a bit hard to eat. I know its only because it is a bit unfamiliar. To my shame I did eat some fries in McDonalds a few days ago at the train station in Nagoya while Lawrence was fawning over electrical goods. I was feeling a little upset and overwhelmed and the chips helped, although the feeling was soon replaced by guilt. Oh yeah I forgot the melon, soup, tea, sake.... it took out host 3 or 4 trips with full trays to bring all the food to our room. And we got to wear yukata, which we even went down the street in to phone my mum.

Lawrence hasn't mentioned it yet but I think its worthy of note - the toilets here are mad. Even　in public toilets they are quite luxurious (well the Western style ones are) and weird. Its 30 degrees here but the seats are heated and have a button for "flush sound" to save embarrasment (I have only brushed past the automatic sensored ones when walking in and so my timing is completely off and therefore I haven't really used it) and a bidet button, hot air ( I think) button etc etc. But both of us are too scared to use it. But when you flush the refill water comes out of a tap at the top where there is a sink which drains into the cistern, so saving water and space and its quite nifty. Theres loads of cool stuff here. But perhaps I shouldn't dwell on the toilet...

We have also　eaten mitarashi^dango - rice ball dumplings dipped in　soy sauce and cooked, peach shakes and too may packet noodles - better than English ones but still packet noodles...

Am missing cheese on toast, blackcurrant jam and Nutella as well as just cooking normally?!