Next we were heading to Cambodia, via Chau Doc. We surprised ourselves by getting to Chau Doc early enough to make it to the border (about 1 hour away by motorbike) and made a decision to try and get there straight away. Our hand was slightly forced by the fact we just found out what date it actually was - three days later than we thought it was. However we didn't have enough cash in our current account and had already forgotten all our other pin numbers, there was a powercut so no internet access, and our (lying) moto driver told us we could get cash at the border, which closed at 5. So we stupidly rushed to the border...On the way Lawrence's bike got a blow-out so part of the journey was with one driver and two big backpacks and us two clinging on for dear life to just one bike. But we made it, got through the Vietnam border but then upon entering Cambodia our problems continued. We only had enough for one visa - and there was no ATM in sight. In fact the Cambodian moto guys said they would take one of us to Phnom Penh to get some cash for $50. No chance. And the border was closing for the night anyway. After much aggro we decided to head back to Vietnam, but by now the border on that side was shut too. For a while it looked like we were stuck in no-mans land. Its now dark and its an hours drive in both directions to anywhere and we can't afford to spend any more money. Now the moto drivers have all gone, there is no way back and no way forward. But the Vietnamese border office guys took pity on us and astounded us with their kindness and generosity (frankly we didn't deserve it). They let us sleep in their conference room, and then went on to give us a dinner of rice and fish, offered us a shower and gave us bottles of water for the night. They even gave us a straw mat to sleep on and a mosquito net. I was so happy to have food (we hadn't eaten all day) and a place to sleep, even if it was the floor. We had only had 3 hours sleep the night before, and I still had a rotten cold. But now I was in good spirits and thought it was a bit of an adventure anyway. Lawrence was less impressed, perhaps because it was my impatience that landed us here. However, at 1.30am I started to change my mind, as the floor was decidly not comfy. Then when I needed to go to the toilet all of the guard dogs started barking and chasing me (there were loads of them). This obviously woke up our kind hosts/armed border guards who then had to check out the cause of the fuss with their torches and guns. Oops, sorry guys. But in the morning (5.30am) it was time to get up. At this point I was so tired the floor was actually comfy. Lawrence then got a lift to Chau Doc (we'd remembered our pins and found missing cards now), whilst I was given a breakfast of rice, fish and fruit and also sandwiches for lunch! I can't describe how friendly they were, even with the limited shared language. I got to sit and watch all the people crossing the border, with their wares of fish or fruit or tin cans, or just themselves and their children. I was even given a cigar by one of the border guards! I wish we had something more to give, but all I could do was make a thank you card with a page from my notebook.Back to Cambodia, and they were wondering where we went, for our exit stamp from Vietnam was from the day before, so we had to trudge back to get another date stamp from Vietnam. Then the Cambodian visa office wouldn't take our Vietnamese dong (although the previous night they said it was fine). But we did have dollars to give, and we paid our fee and made it through. By the way, before we'd even got our visas we were offered weed. We thought this would be a patently bad idea at this point. After a bit more hassle (the bus to Phnom Penh was cancelled that day) we managed to get a taxi for $10 each to Phnom Penh. At last we arrived in Phnom Penh, but having spent so much time in Vietnam we are really short of time, so we booked a bus to Siem Reap for the next day. We didn't see the killing fields (no time), I feel a bit guilty about that, but we didn't fancy the S21 museum of torture either. Having read about all that it already gave me nightmares. We stayed near the lake in the budget backpacker quarters, but the 'backpacker' thing is starting to grate already. We're too old perhaps. Everyone seems content to eat and drink (and pay tourist prices too) and watch DVDs all day in the guesthouse. I mean its a pleasant thing to do - we do the same in Nottingham - but why come away if thats all you do? We didn't even fancy the "happy pizza". We're turning into proper miserable old b******s! Oh yeah and Lawrence's watch was stolen too.

So we got to Siem Reap and went to the Angkor temples for sunrise the next morning. The Angkor Temples are worth it, really amazing. All the Hindu and Buddhist carvings reminded me of Hampi in India, but unfortunately with more crowds. The day got better and better as the crowds disappeared, and the temples and carvings are excellent. And the ones that were overtaken by jungle were even more atmospheric. The next day we travelled 45km to see another temple and a river with thousands of lingas (phalluses) carved into the river bed along with a few Vishnus, Shiva and Brahmas. That was well worth it too, even the fat Russians (I think) playing in the waterfall were amusing.