Xi'an - I arrived with a cold and a bit of a fever but the bed and ensuite (amazing bathroom - Shyuan Hostel) saved me from going into a downward spiral... so we got there on Weds, finally got up and wandered around. After what felt like weeks in a land that fashion and cleanliness forgot, it was a relief. I can't believe how much of a city girl I may actually be. I mean, I like the countyside and beautiful scenery, but I hate the smell of piss and damp and being stared at. And spitting. So we sat on a square for a bit drinking coffee and sparkling water. Luxury. Decided to see some 'sights' so after taking 30 minutes to cross the road (the subway was huge and confusing) we made it to the Bell Tower - saw a touristy but nevertheless very good performance on traditional Chinese instruments - no idea what they were called. Lots of big bells being hit with a stick, flute and harp-style things, and a wicked dancer who had amazing balance and agility. Then another 30 minutes to get to the Drum Tower (via the subway - it was only 3 minutes walk if not for the traffic). Obviously Lawrence liked hitting the drums. Saw another musical performance - again very skilled. Though during both a few Chinese people talked during the performance which I found weird (and annoying).

Then off to Muslim Quarter, wandering round eating loads of food - delicious veggie-chilli fried pancakes, some strange but tasty beansprout/square noodly blocks that looked like potatoes in a fried chilli sauce, some horrid kebabs, nice steamed pear in a sweet liquid with lemon, pomegranate and persimmon. More pancakes for me - I bought loads for breakfast and lunch for our trip to Terracotta Warriors tomorrow. Then to bed - I was knackered and a bit ill so I slept soundly with my ear plugs. Lawrence's bed (we later found out) was directly above the basement bar's speakers, which were playing some awful live rocky singer who occasionally did some awful rnb. Needless to say, the next morning we had to swap rooms.

So anyway, we had decided to do a 'tour' with the hostel just so we could properly meet some more people and because we were a bit lazy with our preparation. It started at 9.30 so we got up early to go and book our train tickets out of Xi'an. When we finally got there the queue was too long to wait so we went back to wait for our tour which was late anyway...

The tour obviously took us to some lame-ass factory shop selling terracotta warriors crap and some nice furniture actually. But we weren't up for buying massive terracotta warriors 'for our garden' or hugely expensive screens. Maybe if our premium bonds come in?... But then to the real place which was quite good - see photos. Obviously we went back on the 'no more Qing stuff' (its quite hard to avoid). Still we all felt a bit like sheep but it was nice to talk to other people. Then we were shepherded off to a weird restaurant where we were expected to pay 30RMB for a buffet dinner. We had our packed lunch instead (ha!), drank the free green tea and left to see the 'Chinese pyramids' down the road. Weird. See photo. Back on the tour, now to a silk factory that was quite interesting for a few minutes - seeing how silk is made - until the obligatory special offers. We were desperate to get back by 5pm to get our train tickets and no-one wanted any more diversions so then we went back. Our Chinese guide and driver were lovely though, and funny. The driver put on his 'Best of Atomic Kitten' tape and sang along very happily to the chorus, very sweet. They each sang a Chinese folk song to us - by themselves with no accompaniment - gorgeous. I can't imagine anyone from England being so un-selfconscious and happy to sing!

By the way Lonely Planet is s***, it has loads of errors in it never mind the 'clever' comments. For example, the train ticket office shut at 4.30, not 5. So now we had to pay the hostel 40RMB each to book our tickets. Screwing. Thats expensive.

However, our ultimate aim was achieved in that we met a nice couple (Lousie and Tom) who also wanted to go to Hua Shen (big Taoist mountain) independently tomorrow. So thats what we did....We missed the public bus by 5 minutes then had to wait for a private tour bus to fill up before we set off - not a good start. And then we realised we were on some Chinese tour instead. Aargh! But no 'factories' thank god, just a few eating stops. The other Chinese were screwing at the guide, it looked like they just wanted to get to Hua Shen too...at least it happens to everyone not just foreigners. So we made it, just about understood where to go and meet to return, got a cable car to the North Peak and started walking, hopefully to some of the other peaks. Scenery was amazing but a bit misty. Hundreds/thousands? of 'pilgrims'/tourists - all Chinese. I nearly gave up (the crowds obviously did too) and was heard saying "I don't care about any more skanky peaks" but then we came across a 'cloud ladder' of vertical steps up a cliff face which won me over. The excitement ad vertigo kept me going and we made it to th etop. Hooray! Great sense of achievement and fantastic views. We played around getting some photos then realised we had better get back to the bus and quickly. Turns out they were waiting for us (but not for long). At least they waited. Then we got some cheap wine from the supermarket and nice food from the hostel, played pool and talked newspaper politics til the early hours (he's a journalist). Great to talk, other than "where you from , where you been? blah blah etc".

Saturday = hangover. Horrid train. Really was a 'hard sleeper'. Toilet stank. But because we're both a bit ill the 19 hour journey was spent mostly sleeping. I also read a entire book (Mister Pip - I recommend it) and nearly stabbed a guy who thought we all wanted to listen to his phone play Chinese style s***ty hard house all night. Lawrence was more sensible and just asked him to turn it down, which he did. Lots more incomprehension with the old couple who shared our compartment. All good really.

Chengdu - nice city. Wenshu Buddhist temple is gorgeous, I could easily spend the next 3 days there. Calming, lots of incense and wandering monks, and a teahouse full of lively and happy Chinese. See photos. Lots of water, terrapins, carp and trees etc. This Chinese guy talked to us for ages and showed us all his photos - he was very charming and wanted to practice his English (and for real, not as a scam). Heard all about his efforts to get a degree and how he used to be a 'worker' in a factory. He was so happy and animated, his good mood was infectious, though his poor wife was just waiting in the background. He wished us good fortune and happy love forever etc and along with everyone else warned us not to get pickpocketed. Later on we saw him again and he taught us how to pray properly in Buddhism. He was very surprised to hear that we did not go to Church in England (or believe in God really).

Anyway sorry its been so long and rambling perhaps. To summarise, I like it.