Namaste!

I made it to India! Yippee! After my flight from Newcastle to Heathrow was cancelled I took the train down to London - I made the flight just in the nick of time! Once on the flight the first thing I did was spill my drink down myself (typical!), but luckily had a change of clothes so all as fine.

After going through customs in Delhi airport the first thing I did was try and find an ATM - I found 2 but neither of them appeared to work. I had to get to the domestic terminal and without cash for a taxi this was going to be a problem! Luckily a man suggested that I buy my ticket to Varanasi with a credit card then I would get a free transfer to the other terminal.......so that's what I did. In the domestic terminal neither of the ATMs worked either, but my brain did start to work........I called the fraud department of LloydsTSB and they released my card (this was a bit annoying because I had called them before I left to tell them that I was going away - any way problem solved!).

I got a taxi from the airport to my hotel in Varanasi and got my first glimpse of the madness of India!! As might be expected the rules of the road are unusual - I think the priority system is as follows:

1. Cows - don't hit them what ever you do

2. Trucks - they are the biggest

3. Motor cars

4. Tuk tuks

5. Cyclos

6. Bicycles

I'm not exactly sure where people fit into the order! But overtaking requires no signalling, just beeping! Ha ha!

Anyway.....once at the hotel I slept pretty much for 16 hours!

I forgot to say - the temperature here is at least 40 degrees. I don't think I have ever been so hot in my life! I'm coping ok with it so far though!

After my long sleep I got up ready to explore the ghats (steps down to the Ganges where people bath, wash their clothes and pray). It didn't take long to attract attention! At one point a group of school boys were videoing me on their mobile phone! I had lots of people coming up to me trying to sell me stuff or just talk to me. Not far into my walk a young man approached me and said he would walk with me down the river and show me the temples if at the end I would go into his shop. I was very dubious - but in retrospect having him with me saved me a lot of hassle later on so it was well worth it!

As we walked down the river we chated about stuff and he explained about the temples to me. I also went into a couple of the temples which was cool. After walking for a long time we made it to the main "burning ghat" - this is where cremations happen. A separate guy explained to me about the morning process and how the bodies are prepared for burial. It was very interesting. There are always a few bodies buring at one time - one was just being set alight as I arrived, also one was just being put out as I walked past (I think I swallowed some of the ashes, not good!). Apparently in Hinduism not all beings are burned some which are innocent are just put in the Ganges!! The innocent ones are: animals, children still being breast fed, pregnant women, people with leporasy and prients! So its common to see bodies floating in the river (I haven't seen one but some of my fellow travellers have)!!

After the burning ghat I was walked through some alley ways to the Golden Temple. To get to the alley way near the temple like everyone else I had to have a full body search (closer than an airport search I can tell you!). After that I wasn't even allowed in because I'm not a HIndu, but it was good to experience all the hustle and bustle around the temple.

At the shop I bought a couple of scarves (yes mum - you can have first pick!), but I didn't have much cash on me so the guy came back to the hotel with me in a cyclo. He wasn't allowed in the hotel so he waited outside whilst I got the money. I also gave him a good tip - he had spent a good few hours with me!

After a short nap Pauline and the rest of the group arrived! Yay!! Everyone seems nice - and there are a couple of real characters amongst them.

That night we were taken on a boat ride down the Ganges to the main ghat to experience a ceremony. En route we took part in a little ritual where you light a candle which is in a little bowl filled with flowers then place it in the river and make a wish. It was a really nice moment. At the main ghat the atmospere was electric! There were about 5 priests all standing in a row almost dancing with incense and candles. There were 100's of people watching. I hopfully have some good photos that I will upload later (this computer is far to slow to consider uploading).

The next day we travelled up the Ganges in a car for an hour or so then got boats so that we could see how people live along the river. To be honest because it was so hot there was very little activity at first, but it was nice and calming to be sailing on the river. That night we camped next to the river, which was really cool. I woke up to the sound of dolphins splashing about in the river!

Yesterday we sailed back to Varanasi. As we set off very early we saw lots of people doing their morning bathing routines.

This morning I have just been out on another boat ride to see the sunrise and watch the ghats wake up.

Right.......thats enough for now (sorry to go on a bit!). I'm off for some breakfast.

Love Louise

Mum and dad - hope all is well at St Mungos

Hilary - I am not dead! Also I am going to a paper making factory tomorrow I think....I'll take lots of pics for you.

Sara - I hope you had a wonderful day

Anna - hello from India!

Michael - thanks for your help last week!