We were met with clear skies the next morning and as such, we were advised to take a side trip up Conical Hill, a tough little peak rising from Harris Saddle, the plateau which can expose walkers to the most extreme weather conditions. The extra climb can add a couple of hours onto what was already a five hour trek, but as we were promised even more spectacular views at the summit, we thought it to be a worthwhile addition.

We filled our bellies with porridge and after a moment's panic thinking Shaun had lost our coffee rations (which were thankfully found), we were packed and covering ground. The terrain was to change a number of times that day, but it started with silent Lord-of-the-Rings-esque paths through rocky mountain valleys, with green glistening lakes and waterfalls.

We'd definitely seen the last of the well-formed tracks of day one and had to scramble up rocks and boulders on what was the steepest incline of the whole route - tough going, especially with our bags on our backs.

Conical Hill was no mean feat either - even having left our bags at the provided shelter, it took some effort. However, to say it was worth it is an understatement. Up on the summit, on the most beautiful and still day, we were treated to breath-taking views: The majestic Darran Range mountains and their snowy peaks; the 'Middle-Earth' valley behind us; the waves breaking at Martins Bay in the far distance. We felt so lucky to be there - how amazing, challenging and rewarding is travelling?!

The brochures describe the Routeburn Track as 'beautiful beyond words' - that is, if you happen to land on even half-decent weather. Well, we had won the jackpot and I can safely say that that day was the most beautiful of all of my travelling days thus far.

After a knee-twisting descent from Conical Hill, we fuelled up with a noodle-based lunch and left the other walkers behind to reach our second night's accommodation at Lake McKenzie Hut well before the sunset. And I suppose it was to get the first pickings on the beds on offer too.

The track took us a long way around following a mountain side with non-stop views of the glacier-formed valley. After gaining a second wind once we saw the huts from the top of the mountain, we skipped along thinking that the end was in sight. However, we had to continue zigzagging down and through a mysterious, mossy, possibly-hobbit-ridden forest. When we eventually got there, the after-effect from 11 hours of trekking in 36 hours were beginning to take its toll on our bodies.

The Lake McKenzie Hut was tucked in a picturesque, fairy-like valley next to the calm lake. It's amazing to think that these unreal, most beautiful places are made by Mother Nature herself and often found in quite hard-to-reach places, but I guess that is what makes them extra awesome.

We got to choose what we believe were the best beds of the house and now more accustomed to the goings-on, we parked ourselves in the kitchen with cups of tea waiting for the hustle and bustle to commence when everyone gathers for their evening meals. At one point, there was a Danish couple cooking pancakes for dinner (which put our pasta/tuna/tomato cup-a-soup concoction to shame). How they managed to bring a carton of eggs, I will never know.

We spent the rest of the night with more games of Dominoes and cards with our new friends and shared stories of travels and other hiking feats, but there was one other special treat: As had happened the night before, the hut warden came along to check everyone's tickets and to give his speech on safety and weather conditions ahead. This warden, however, delivered a performance worthy of an open-mic night at Manchester's Comedy Lounge that had us all in hysterics. He's been living and working at the huts for the past 22 years, so I guess he's had enough time to perfect it.

The last day came and so did the end of our trek. I really didn't want it to end and could have easily carried on for another day or two. However, both of us had already filled our heads with dreams of the amazing food and beers awaiting for us in Queenstown, and more importantly the pre-booked hot spring spa in the evening.

Although the last day was foggy and therefore the amazing views were no longer visible, it was good to be reminded not only how quickly the weather can change, but also how extremely lucky we'd been for the last two days.

The last 5 hours walk to the Divide Shelter - the end of the trek - took us around a misty forest with moss-covered trees jewelled with pearl dropped spider-webs. The rocky, muddy track led us past more cascading waterfalls and although our joints and muscles were now starting to call it a day, we pushed ourselves to enjoy and power through the last stretches to make our bus connection back to Te Anau to collect our van. As the sounds of the road approached, we knew it was time to get back to civilisation. And showers. And clean clothes.

We drove eagerly to Queenstown and I could almost taste the pints of dark ale in front of a roaring fireplace in a cosy alpine pub - at least that's what I was hoping for. After parking up, showering and getting ready for our hot spring spa, we were hoping on sampling the Queenstown institution, 'Fergburger'. However, I think half of the city were queuing for one at 7 o'clock and as we were due to be picked up for the spa half an hour later, we resorted to a quick slice of pizza instead.

We enjoyed the hot springs immensely; what an amazing end. We soaked our sore bodies in the warm tub overlooking the setting sun in the valley below us with a glass of bubbly in our hands - backpacking life is great.

After finishing up at the spa, we headed back into town for a couple of pints and decided to try our luck at Fergburger again. We were in luck second time around and so ended the night by scoffing down a couple of local delicacies - they come highly recommended.

The South Island has so far offered us so many unforgettable experiences, totally exceeding our expectations. And with the Routeburn Track now behind us, we were that happy with our small achievement and inspired to do more that we discussed working towards something big one day - Mount Everest, perhaps? However, first up will be the Inca Trail in May, but we're just focusing on the rest of New Zealand for now - there's still so much more to see.