Leave Quito, take an 8 hour bus ride along some loosely termed 'paved roads' and you'll arrive in Ecuador's hick capital, Lago Agrio. Whilst locals stared at us like we were aliens stepping out of a spaceship I managed to strike up a bargain deal staying in dubiously classified 3 star hotel with less than palacial qualities. Following day (xmas day) was a 6.00am kick off with 3 hours in a very haggard old 4X4 cab ending with 3 hours down the mighty Rio Napa in a hollowed out log with a 75hp outboard motor precariously strapped to the back of it. End result, we're in middle of nowhere!

Out of the pure fear of having to spend Xmas in Quito and possibly dying of boredom a hastily hatched plan was struck to visit the Cuyabeno Reserve, Ecuador's largest piece of protected jungle in the Amazon Basin. Approx 250km east of Quito deep within the reserve is our small jungle retreat. 8 huts made of palm tree trunks with large leaves for roofs, no electricity, no football results, lots of sun followed generally followed by lots of rain and a lagoon infested with caimine (alligators) isn't where most people choose to spend the festive season.

Again scenery was amazing. Jungle walks yielded some amazing creatures including numerous birds of prey, snakes, spiders, dog sized rodents and even freshwater dolphins! Once again the pictures do this amazing place more justification than my ramblings ever will!

Highlight of the trip was to wet a line in search of the elusive piranha. Managed to bag a couple of the toothy beasts, a whole ¼ lb each! Certainly not 'Walter' to 60lb catfish who patrols the water unsuspectingly swallowing local Quichua children whilst he hunts out the industrial size local mosquito's but I was pretty chuffed with my days catch.

Lenny our Quichua guide was pretty keen on cooking up the piranha's so I donated them to him and his 10 kids as an appetizer thinking he had more of a need for them then me. The fact he has forearms are reminiscent of tree trunks and he wields a very large machete with reckless abandonment also hastened the decision to keep things good with the great man. (see pics for a glimpse of the forearms/homemade trap and bow and arrow).

Trip back to Lago Agrio although quicker by an hour yielded the 'craziest cabbie in Cuyabeno'. After successfully getting bogged twice in the space of 10 mins and expecting the passengers to push him out both times he was able to drive in a manner befitting that of a police chase. At times I forgot that in South America cars are actually driven on the right hand side of the road.

Belated festive greetings and happy new year to all!