Loretta: Due to the bizzare fact that it takes 5&half hours by train to travel just over 100km from Ljublijana to Trieste, we decided to take a shuttle bus that took under 90minutes to reach Trieste railway station. For 15euros each we saved ourselves the hassle of changing trains and time. The Go-Opti shuttle service has capitalised on the deficiencies of the Rail network and provides transport from Ljublijana to Trieste, Venice & Milan. I'm glad I couldn't see the speedo, but I am sure we were travelling around 150km/h: a speed we are not quite used too!
We arrived to a wet and wind blown Trieste, which made navigation to our accommodation extremely difficult. Our umbrellas turned inside out with John's poking the corner of his eye- leaving a nasty dark bruise. Fortunately our accommodation was only 500 metres away, right next to Santo Antonio Cathedral and in line with Trieste's Grande canal and 150 metres fom the Bay of Trieste.
John: To get to our accommodation in reasonable time, we avoided another zig zag indirect bum steer from google maps direction finder.
Loretta: We awoke to a clear, cool Saturday & set off to explore our new environment. Trieste was once a major seaport and there are now plans to re-establish its importance as a port to enhance the work opportunities for locals. This is not an overly busy city overrun with tourists, which made it enjoyable strolling the streets. We visited a Roman Amphitheatre ruin which was visible from the road and in the old part of the city. It was obvious that in the past you were able to enter the grounds and walk amongst the ruins, but perhaps some tourist (or Italian in high heels) has tripped and fallen & taken action against the council. Nevertheless we were able to get a great view of this once magnificent structure. John: We also visited other beautiful places in Trieste such as the massive Piazza di Republican Unita (again gorgeous at night), the Cathedral of Santa Maria Maggiore and a range of other piazzas and buildings of historical significance. With Advent beginning, all the Christmas lights are out and everything looks like the fantasyland Christmas context we dreamt about as children. We also took a long stroll out on the pier and all along the waterfront, viewing all the fishing boats and the new port facility.
Loretta: We attended Mass in the Sant Antonio Cathedral then headed off to meet Sylvia Toffanin, Nonna Elisa's cousin. Silvia is an energetic and lovely outgoing 87year old that instantly made us feel welcome in her home. Like Nonna, she had prepared food in anticipation of our visit: an array of traditional Triestan dishes for our lunch that were just delicious. Being with Silvia was like being with Nonna. Despite the deplorable weather conditions, Silvia insisted on taking us sight seeing.
We proceeded to catch a bus to Villa Mirramare to see the castle and gardens only to find it closed. Both John & I were concerned about Silvia as it was by now raining heavily, with a strong icy wind blowing. Silvia pointed out that when she was young, she would swim along this part of the coast line which looked beautiful even on a terrible day. After walking for a kilometre on uneven pathways, we boarded another bus for Silvia take us to San Guisto- there was no way our tour guide was going to go back home for a hot cuppa. She felt obligated to show us her city, repeatedly calling herself our hostess and insisted upon us braving the elements to do so! On the way up, Silvia pointed out a building which was the one that Nonna Lisa was born in and lived to perhaps around 2-3 years of age. Silvia wasn't exactly sure.
We walked the steep hill to la Cattedrale I'l San Guisto and the Castello San Guisto which were built around 1200. We have never felt so cold. Our gloves were wet, the wind was beating against us but thankfully, the rain had stopped. From the top of the hill we could see the whole city of Trieste and bay. Just like in the Eastern suburbs where people have to park away from their homes, Silvia pointed out that people in Trieste have to park up and around the Castello, because there is nowhere to park in the centre of town. After convincing Silvia we appreciated her determination to show us around and aired once again aired our concerns about her safety in navigating steep hills and pathways, we returned to her apartment.
More food was served-which again was delicious, we then viewed photo albums which highlighted the many trips Silvia &her family took overseas. She was a traveller and it was obvious from the photographs that this lady enjoyed life. Just as we were about to leave, she set off to her room again only this time to return with clothes which she insisted I take. We left Silvia feeling euphoric that we had made a connection with family.
John- edited Skype conversation between my sorrella, Unnetta (Annie) and I follows:
Unnetta: hi Jonaki, nice to hear from you! ahhh Trieste, are there any Nonna relatives there?xxxx
Me:Yes, we have just come back from a full day with Silvia Toffinin, Nonna Lisa's cousin and we felt like we had a day with Nonna. Was hard to hold back tears. She is the same crack up, a human dynamo with the same sense of humour, but a little less dizzy. The food kept coming out and as we were about to leave, guess what? out came the clothes selection for Loretta. Wow! I will tell you more about the day as soon as possible.
Unnetta: ohhhh wow! i want to meet her! does she speak English! how awesome!!!! are u visitng Silvia agan? maybe we could skype whie u r there
Me: Not a word, but it doesn't stop her from speaking. Luckily I could understand 50% xx
Unnetta: thats a bonus! How old is she?
Me: Silvia is 87 but until 2 years ago ( maybe I misunderstood how long ago it was) she was in a travelling Carnevale mask and costume performance troupe that travelled around Europe performing in parades and live theatre. I will ask her for same photos from that phase. She is having trouble with her legs and back but she insisted on taking us out for 4 hours in the driving rain and cold to show us Trieste sights. I spent the whole time waiting to catch her if she fell. She is a legend!
Unnetta: wow!!!!!!! I so want to know her and regret not knowing her all my life.
Me: Yes, I left immediately wanting to see her again. She said we were mad travelling in winter. Showed her a photo of us and josh, lees, Jess, mum and dad taken a couple of months before dad died. She said about me : you were fat then, you are half that size now. I loved her Nonna-like no bulls*** honesty. I pointed you out because she had a photo of you and baby Tarah in her photo album
Unnetta: oh really, how lovely. ohhhhhh. I so so want to meet her. a connection to a Nonna like Nonna relative OUR Relative would be so special. I'm so happy one of us is there. please give her a hug for me. can we skype when you are there maybe? when are you going?
Me: Unfortunately, leaving Trieste in an hour and off to Bologna.