After a 5 hour road journey with Etienne - but just me because the other guy apparently changed his mind, (so still no buddying up with other independent travelers). I arrived at the small but very bustling port of Ankify. Straight away my bag was rushed away, a ticket thrust in my hand and I was squashed in a boat with about 8 other Malagasy women, 5 pineapples, a sack of rice, bicycle, 3 big plastic bowls and a couple of baskets of other goods and 6 live chickens. It was only about £3 for the 20 min journey to Nosy Be. the girl next to me kindly offered me a banana she had just bought, but I was a bit bananad out because Etienne bought me banana mixed with a starch paste - cassava? wrapped in a banana leaf which was incredibly filling.

On arrival, before we even docking a guy shouted taxi at me, I nodded and before we had tied up, my bag was taken and I was ushered off to a taxi. I knew I should ask the price (I was advised by my the hotel when I rang the day before that it should be about 30 000 AR) but seeing as I'm crap at counting above 30 in French - yes we've already established how bad I am, I went with the flow. I was enjoying the buzz of the journey and the independence bit - but when I paid the porter the rate I had been giving all over Madagascar to porters as tips- he complained. I refused to budge.

The taxi man knew my hotel and I also asked for a drop off at a bank enroute (in my beat French 'Visa') to get some cash out as I knew my hotel was cash only.

The taxi- a Renault 4 again , had to stop to put a litre of petrol in before abput another 20 min journey to the north of the island. The taxi driver seemed a bit grumpy (the guy at the port was very smiley and friendly but was not the driver and had hopped out at the petrol station). He kept switching the engine off when we went downhill and it didn't always start again, so he had to stop and fiddle with the engine.

We arrived, a guy took my bag and I asked how much- they sort of stood there and ummed and aarhed and looked grumpy together - I eventually got my cash out and offered 30 000, the amount suggested. I had another 10 000 in my hand, they asked for that, and then after some discussion asked for 10 000 more. I shook my head but it was evident i needed to pay up. Not that i was worried about the amount, i just was not sure what all the discussion was all about.

My hotel is simple, large room with a verandah overlooking the sea with amazing views of the sunsetting (picture). I had a tasty lunch on arrival but I knew Nosy Be is the most expensive place in Madagascar, but 8€ is a bit of a shock for lunch after 3 weeks of spending £3. Maybe that's why the tipping didn't seem enough - maybe I should double everything!

So i headed off to go to the dive place next door (why I chose this place) to check out what's on offer. I'm going on a double dive tomorrow afternoon to two sites. He has very good English, and I explained I was a very beginner. So a bit nervous about doing a dive after three weeks and with someone else. I got all the equipment to together - wet suit, fins, jacket, weights and mask - so we're all set.

There is wifi here - but you have to pay for it ( I will of course) !! It's also been cloudy all day so the rainy season is definitely setting in- bringing out the mozzies too. But I went for a walk along the beach nothing special, but the we're sat up on a hill with the outskirts of a village around so nice walks, lovely views and a bit of a breeze. Do I pay for aircon - yes another 8€ a night - will try a night with just the noisy fan to see how I get on but it's hot under the mozzie net.