Hola amigos!

This is a very happy but tired Lizzie writing today - did the Inca Trail and survived to see sunrise over Machu Picchu!!

So we travelled from Puno to Cusco via a 10 hour journey made 13 hours because of a lying tuk tuk driver (he said we had driven him off the road and caused him to crash, damaging his tuk tuk and breaking his nose) and corrupt police men (who made us drive back to the scene of the "accident" and pay them and the boy). It was so obviously a set-up but there was nothing to do but pay. Grr!

We had a day in Cusco to visit Inca ruins and markets (more earrings for you Tilly!) then had a days Sacred Valley tour. We went to Sachsayhuaman (sexy woman!), Pisac and Ollantaytambo ruins so I am now an Inca expert! Its all very interesting, I love the way they build and fit the stones together - yes I know Im a geek - and have been converted to their Pachamama (mother earth) religion but Im not too sure about pouring my beer onto the ground before drinking - waste!

Then the trekking began with a vengeance! Because I booked this trip so late I couldnt do the official "Inca Trail" since only 500 people per day are allowed and its booked up 3 or 4 months ahead, but I did an alternative which was just as cool. It was 3 days trekking through beautiful scenery, up to an altitude of 4400m, and camping in the most remote places. I took a tonne of photos! The trek was pretty tough in places, the altitude just kills you, my heart was pumping 100 times faster to get more oxygen but I had no other altitude effects luckily. Some of the girls felt ill which must have been horrendous, it was tough enough! We walked through small villages and met the people, giving toys to the children, and had a look round someones house. It was one  tiny room for 6 people to sleep in, 20 guinea pigs to roam around in and for cooking and eating. Not my idea of luxury! Youll be pleased to know Mum that I was plenty warm enough in my sleeping bag, thermals, fleece and hat but I was cuddling my water bottle filled with hot water. I slept so well those nights, was totally exhausted! And my walking boots were superb and no blisters to report :o)

It felt so good to finish on the third day, such an achievement and a great experience! We celebrated at the thermal springs in Aguas Caliente and a night in a hostel - bliss! Well bliss until 4.30am when we got up to get to Machu Picchu for sunrise. Machu Picchu is great, photos dont do it justice (though I took about 50!) Its amazing how intact it is still - again I love the architecture! We had a good tour then like idiots we are we decided our legs werent quite tired enough so climbed Waynu Picchu (probably spelt wrong) which is the massive mountain you can see behind the ruins in the photo. It was a 300m vertical distance, up steep slippery steps, and parts were even scarier than Death Road, especially the descent. Only in South America hey!! But the view did make it worth it - wow!

So after that we treated ourselves to the bus back to Aguas Caliente for a huge lunch then caught the train back to Cusco. It was a beautiful train ride but not so much in the dark and 4 and a half hours later I was pleased to arrive, even if it was bucketing down with rain. Quick shower and change at the hotel and out to complete the "24 hour challenge" - after the Inca Trail its customary to stay awake 24 hours, drinking generally involved. It was an awesome night, hence why Im especially tired and fragile today! Just had a full body massage for a fiver and feel so relaxed though! Nice! So tonight is guinea pig for dinner then bed because we have a 5.30am start for our drive to Arequipa.

So..... as you can tell Im still having an amazing time, been so busy and doing some incredible things. And Im being safe too of course! Am seriously thinking about changing my flights (see your email Mum) to stay out here longer. 6 weeks is nothing. I hear its raining in England so theres no need to rush home! Cant decide what to do exactly, am reading the Lonely Planet tonight! So Im sorry if youre all missing me loads but itll make the party even bigger and better when I do return! Will keep you posted.

So lots of love, keep the emails and messages coming, miss you all, besos xxxxxxxxxxx