We left Huanchaco at stupid o'clock and headed to the Sipan museum, getting there just as it opened its gates! This is a place dedicated to an amazing find - the tomb of the Lord of Sipan who was around way before the Incas (so we're talking somewhere between 800 and 1400 AD). 100s of exquisite and priceless artefacts were recovered from the site and the actual tomb of the Lord, which was smothered in gold and jewels, was discovered in 1987 so all very recent. The museum houses everything found at the site including a lot of skeletons (and of Sipan himself). It was pretty impressive.

We then had quite a funny lunch stop as we pulled over by the side of the road. We had just started to set everything up to make some sandwiches when a police car pulled up and 2 cops got out. Uh oh! We thought they were going to tell us off for stopping there but in fact they stopped to find out if we were having problems. They then told us that there were much nicer spots further along the road to eat. Too late by then as we had the table up and our washing bowls set up! They were hovering and showing no signs of leaving so we offered them one of our gourmet sandwiches (same old same old - cheese, ham, tuna, tomato and cucumber on dodgy dry bread). Looking suitable (un)impressed, they ate silently and then bade us farewell and drove off - probably wondering how on earth gringos can live off such crappy food!

We finally arrived in Punta Sal which was lovely - a huge stretch of white sandy beach and only a few huts on it. We paid $5 a night to upgrade into a hut and Vee, David and I shared a huge, 3 double-bedded bungalow - finally can stretch out in a double bed! I went to bed pretty early (as has become the norm for me on this leg as I can't stand the inane conversations that go on - not to mention the mindless drinking purely to get pissed - not my idea of fun. I'd rather talk to myself thanks). So, as a result, I woke up early, to the amazing sound of crashing waves, and went for a wander along the beach where everything was just waking up. You could hear the serenity (in-joke for those of us familiar with The Castle - yes, Steve and Michelle (and Jonathan if I remember correctly), I have now seen it and can quote like the best of them!).

On Friday I lay in a hammock reading for about an hour and fried myself and then Anita and I got a lift into the nearby tourist town of Mancora which is the main resort on that stretch of beach and full of surfer dudes and dudettes. We wandered around the market stalls and then had a nice lunch before heading back to base where I slept for about 2 hours, half in the hammock til it got too cold and then in bed - this is the life. I can do it for a day or two but anymore and I get cabin/island fever and itch for some activity. Actually I'd settle for intelligent conversation as my brain is turning to mush right now.

The other group was cooking dinner so I sat alone on the sand and watched a beautiful sunset duck below the waves and then got a bit melancholy. Been feeling a lot of that since Lima - think I need a change of scenery and people and I'm also pining for the Patagonia leg - great people and company and fantastic scenery, surroundings and activities. Nothing has come close to that 3-week experience yet and while I'm on the same truck, I think I just spend too much time comparing. Never mind, only a little more than a week to go before the wonder of the Galapagos. I went to bed super early after dinner (think it may even have been before 8.30!) and got up early again the next day where I fell in love with Marley, a 1-month old, chocolate brown Labrador puppy - gorgeous! I tried to dognap him (and in fact the owner said I could take him!) but my conscience took over so I contented myself with cuddling him for a while before we hit the road again towards Cuenca.