Thursday morning I had a bit of a panic. I hadn't slept at all well anyway as I had to get up at 3.30am. The lady in my hotel had told me I couldn't pre-book a taxi but as there's always someone on reception all night, they could call one for me. I got down to reception at 4am and there was nobody there and it was pitch dark. Decided I would just have to go out onto the street and try and find one lurking around (at this point I was wondering how far I was going to have to walk before finding a cab!). Sounds easy enough? Well, yes it does. Except for the fact that the door was locked in about 5 different places, it was dark and I couldn't find the light switch. I finally rammed the door and both sides of it burst open. Great security as nobody stirred! Escaped (and had to leave the door open!) and managed to find a cab fairly easily.

The end of the world is nigh......well, not quite but I am here in Ushuaia - the southernmost city in the world and the capital of the Tierra del Fuego (land of fire). It's also the gateway to Antarctica and, while I would love to add that to my list, I simply can't justify the extortionate cost to get there. Imagine me with all of those penguins though?!!

Anyway, landed in Ushuaia at about 11am (after flying via El Calafate which is where the huge glacier is (going there soon) - and it's in the middle of nowhere!). Got to my hotel and had a brilliant surprise. I had the old joining notes for my next tour so had booked the hotel they were originally supposed to be staying in. I assumed it was going to be a s***ty hotel but it looked quite nice when I arrived - kind of Swiss chalet-esque. Got inside and the lady couldn't find my reservation. We decided I must be Leena as all other details looked correct so she said "ah yes, the penthouse". Oh no, said I but she took me upstairs anyway (had my own lift) into a huge room with white leather sofa, dining table and a bedroom with 2 double beds! I decided it must double as a multi-share hostel room so asked if anyone else was staying.She looked horrified and said of course not! I double checked the cost and it was all bona fide so here I am, swanking it up with my Jacuzzi bath and huge suite. Of course typically, Dragoman have since updated the trip notes and tomorrow morning I have to move to what I am sure will be a s***ty hostel and I'll be sharing with another 9 people! Still, it's nice to have a great room for now!

Anyway, I went for a wander round the town this morning and had lunch. My God, it's bloody cold. Decided to go on a penguin tour this afternoon which was definitely worth it but I honestly thought I was going to die of hyperthermia. I had 5 layers on but it wasn't enough - it was bitterly cold and sooooo windy! And I'm supposed to be camping in this? I feel some upgrades to huts coming along. Have made an executive decision to blow my budget and buy a down jacket, waterproof trousers and some proper gloves etc as there's nothing worse than being cold and you need the right quality stuff.

The penguin colony was great! Hundreds of them. We went to Martillo Island which is home to 2 species - gentoo penguin and magellanic penguin. The magellanics only come here in the summer to nest and the rest of the time they live on the Malvinas (Falkland Islands). I just couldn't concentrate properly as I was so bloody freezing! Got back and bought myself some wine and cheese and settled into a hot Jacuzzi bath followed by dinner in bed with a film (in my penthouse suite darling!).

On Friday went for a wander and bumped into Dutch Michel (from my original Brazil tour). I knew he was going to be on my tour so it wasn't such a huge coincidence! Went to the End of the World museum which was disappointingly s*** and took us all of about 5 minutes to see. I then went to transfer my stuff to the hostel, in the process of which was vowing to kill Michel as he told me it was a 10 minute walk - my arse! It took me a good half an hour and was all uphill. I looked like I'd run a marathon by the time I got there and even the receptionist was laughing at my deep purple face! Bumped into Michel later on and was yelling from halfway down the street (such a classy chick!) that I was going to kill him. Then realised he was with Steve, an Australian guy on our tour who hasn't met me yet. Great first impression eh?!

Anyhooo, met up with the tour group in the evening. Real mix of people and ages - hurrah, am no longer the mother hen! There are 19 of us - 4 Brits, 4 Aussies, 2 Danish, 2 Dutch, 1 Canadian, 1 Swiss, 3 Americans and 2 not sures (1 Israeli American and 1 Indian American - the annoying ones!). Our tour leaders are Michael, a Northern Irishman and Gaetano, an Italian. We have subsequently named Gaetano Gelati as we can't remember his name which started a whole raft of nicknames. Michelle (Ozzie bird, my partner in crime and great fun!) has given him a new name every day and so far we've had Little Ice Cream, Little Sausage, Fruitloop, Tea Cosy and Lamb Chop. Michael has become Cupcake which has stuck. I know you all really think I've lost the plot but I think you have to be here to find it funny. One of the Danish boys (only 19 I think) has become Danish Pastry whereas I have been named Blondie, Cougar and Tiger. Not quite sure where any of these have come from but never mind. The group are great. Most people have hit it off very quickly. Our truck, by the way, is called Mamasita and our mascots are Mario and Bearded Barbie!!