India - Slowly Down the Ganges

India is FULL ON.

My First impression that "Delhi is a Dump" was quickly replaced with "Holy Cow!" (literally). Culture shock was fairly high but after a few days it all seems fairly normal. The dirt, dogs, garbage, disgusting smells, craziest driving ever, cows happily wandering everywhere, incessant and ear piercing horns honking, small frustrations, and the crush of people everywhere has been replaced with surprise, delight and something close to AWE after 1 week in the country. Now I see the amazing colors of women's saris, the crisp whites of school uniforms, carts loaded with spices, lentils, nuts and sesame seed encrusted snacks, vendors hustling cartfuls of bracelets in rainbow colors, and pimping on the camels noses - and some things that test my Canadian sensibilities (poverty, hands out non-stop for tips, and touts that just won't leave foreigners alone) - but all in all - its incredible!

So far we've explored a bit of Delhi, paid too much for everything (although it's all relative), floated down the holy Ganges River for 2 days, camping on huge sandbars along the way - never been so cold camping in my life! All of my clothes are suitable for Thailand's 30C temperatures, not the 10c temps or colder we're experiencing now. We've experienced the organized chaos and surprising comfort of India's rail system (3rd class A/C sleeper car - 6 to a compartment!), and then were blown away by Varanasi - City of Light and amazing sites on the edge of the Ganges. We visited the ghats - the 80+ temples lining the river's edge to see life and death played out on temple steps leading to the water. People washing clothes, bathing, making offerings (flowers and candles in banana leaf rafts), and of course burial ceremonies in the 2 funeral ghats along the river - approximately 300 to 400 people are cremated each day - the 6-7 hour long ceremonies presided over by male family members only - women not allowed. It's a goal for Hindu people to die in Varanasi if they can - it's considered a direct ticket to the next phase - ending the cycle of rebirth. According to Neyha, our guide, only 5 types of people cannot be cremated- priests, pregnant women, children under 18, people who have been bitten by a snake, and lepers. Instead, their bodies are wrapped in colorful plastic, weighted with stones or brick and floated into the river - until they sink to the bottom. It's all a very sobering sight and makes me think about our own rituals, beliefs and practices.

We've also experienced both sunset and sunrise by boat, and were accompanied one evening by talented sitar and tabla (drum) musicians, to watch 10 priests perform a ceremony both honoring the Ganges and depicting the legend of Shiva. A stunning visual and an amazing way to experience life in Varanasi. The best part is that it's not all just a show for tourists - this happens everyday and most of the worshippers and spectators are Indians from around the country. There are far fewer foreigners here in India - we attract a lot of stares.

The days have been memorable- Saturday was a scene from "The Kite Runner" - as it was an auspicious day marking the end of winter. Thousands of people came to Varanasi from around India to dip themselves 5 times in the Ganges, make offerings and ask for blessings. It was also the kite festival - with small agile kites- about 18 inches square being flown and battled everywhere. Lots of cheering when a kite flier won a battle- it was great- if only our Book Club could have seen it too!

Yesterday we landed in Agra and viewed the Taj Mahal. Gave us all goosebumps. Future stops will see us go further into Rhajastan - in Jaipur now, then to Pushkar and into the desert to experience camping and traveling by camel! I'll freeze again but it'll be worth it.

There's so much I don't know about Hinduism, Indian history, how to cook the foods that are quickly becoming favorites, and everyday matters like "what happens when a sacred cow dies" "why is Internet access so crappy?" and most importantly, "WHY are the goats wearing sweaters??"

The attached picture doesn't do the ghats justice - will try to post a few more pics once I sort out technology- or not....