Morning came with surprisingly few aches or pains. Whether the massage prevented them or we are just phenomenal athletes isn't important. All we knew was that we didn't hurt.

Today, we decided to go to the Kouang Si Waterfalls. We hired a local tuk tuk driver to take us there. The trip was about 40 minutes long. The scenery and farmland was spectacular and the warm sun made the breezy ride very enjoyable.

Arriving at the gates to the waterfall, we bought some refreshments and began the hike up. We passed two enclosures on the way. One housed several Asian black bears - all rescued from horrible circumstances. It seems bile is used in many Chinese herbal medicines, so bear cubs are stuck in tiny cages, tied up, catheterized and force-fed while their bile is harvested. We were horrified. We were happy to see that places like this are working to rescue and protect these beautiful bears.

Further along, we met Phet, a tiger, who was rescued from horrendous abuse. Today, Phet is in a huge enclosure, full of trees and shrubs to provide plenty of shade and cover. She is fed a natural and healthy diet, and looks very happy and lively.

Back on the trail, we crossed several small walking bridges and passed several pools and waterfalls. All of them were pretty, their waters emerald green and pristine. However, the sight at the very end of the path was the most spectacular! We were greeted by magnificent falls set against the mountain and backlit by sun - a photographer's dream.

We sat and enjoyed the beautiful surroundings, taking several pictures, but mainly just enjoying the view. At one point, 3 monks appeared through the otherworldly mist at the top of the falls, inspiring more shots. A group of Japanese tourists spied Tessa and delightedly begged her to join their group pictures, which she did, blushing at the attention.

Eventually, we made our way back down the trail again, stopping at one pool to swim. The shade and non-stop mist had not inspired Margaret, but the boys were quite enthused. They both leaped off the top of the falls into the refreshing water and then swung from a rope, delighting the Japanese tourists who looked on. Some of them were so inspired that they, too, jumped in, but with all their clothes on. Very strange.

We drove back, refreshed from the hike and swim. Back in town, we checked out the markets once more and then went for supper beside the river. We went to bed that night, sad that we were leaving the next day, but happy with our experience.