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Time to try out our Eurail passes. We got up, skipped breakfast and headed for the train, wanting to leave ourselves plenty of time to get settled.
We arrived at the station in our usual state of confusion. Barry's itinerary read like this:10:32 Catch train. Well, that's all well and good, but it is the "catch train" part that complicates things. First, we had to validate our Eurail passes. Oops, we need a reservation? But we have Eurail tickets?! Oh, it's a TGV train! Which train? There are two. Hey, wait, the train starts at car 10 and goes in descending order, but we're car 13. Where's our car? Oh, the two trains are connected into one, now! Ahh…
We are currently travelling 1st class. This is because adults travelling on Eurail passes in Western Europe have to buy 1st class passes. We could have put the kids in 2nd class, or we could have sat in 2nd class with our 1st class tickets, but we bit the bullet (Ha!) and got 1st class passes for everyone so that we would be together to play cards, share the sights, and so on.
The fields fled by and the French countryside was a nice change after the sprawling immensity of Paris. Stone cottages and beautifully landscaped yards captured our gaze, while massive cornfields filled our views between towns.
After one transfer, we arrived at Avranches. We were the only ones to leave the train and stand on the platform alone. We called a cab, and headed for Le Pommerary Hotel, in Ceaux. A huge pink room with 3 beds (one bowed almost to the floor in the middle) and a bathroom without a shower curtain became our new home. Quite a change from our cozy French apartment! We took a walk into the countryside to enjoy the glorious hydrangeas, two very inquisitive mules, and an up-close look at the six foot tall corn stalks lining our walking lane. We had planned to have a "down day" but, after we saw what Ceaux held in terms of entertainment, we decided to live like the rich-and-famous, order a cab, and pay for the 15 km trip to Mont St. Michel Abbey. Now, before you say, "Not another abbey", bite your tongue, because this abbey is beyond compare. It is the second most photographed structure in France, and we understood why the moment we saw it.
As we begin our exploring, we were first met by a maze of souvenir shops and restaurants, including world famous La Mere Poulard with their 35 Euro omelettes. Having dropped $50.00 on the cab, the omelette was out of the question, so we settled for a quaint restaurant 100 steps further that served spaghetti and other assorted menu items. When Barry asked the waiter for a recommendation, he replied that Barry must try the rack of lamb. Mont St. Michel is surrounded by salt flats and when the lambs eat the salty grass, they become naturally seasoned to perfection. Barry took the advice and did not regret it. He said it was the best lamb he has ever had.
Comfortably full, we began our steep climb up the winding stone walkways and stairs through the medieval town, not knowing what lay ahead. Each corner brought another view, up, down, around…
We decided to pay the entrance fee for the Abbey itself, and weren't disappointed. During summer nights, they have live music as well as light, mirror, and sound effects to enhance the experience. A cello player around one corner created a haunting mood, while at another point in our walk we came upon a harpsichord player who greeted us with a merry tune.
Everything about the abbey was surprising, especially the non-existent crowds. After fighting our way through Paris, it was unbelievable to be able to wander slowly and peacefully.
When we exited the cathedral at the the very top of the abbey and stepped onto the massive balcony, we were greeted by a breathtaking sunset and an immense skyline. People simply began to cry at the sight of what they beheld. The tide had swirled in around the rocks below and we watched the waves swallow the sand flats. Even Barry said it took his breath away; it was the climax of his visit to one of the most spectacular places that he had ever been to. No one should go to France without seeing this sight!
Night had fully descended by the time we were halfway back to our hotel, so we took one more look at the illuminated beauty of the Abbey and added another memory to our days in France.
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