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Morning dawned, partly cloudy but nice, and our cab driver arrived in a small school bus to take us to the station. We were glad to be early, as we needed to use our painfully awkward French to determine whether to use our Eurail passes to go to Bayeux or not. Barry didn't think so, but wanted to double-check. We only have so many days of travelling on them, so we knew we had to choose wisely. When we confirmed that it only cost 17 Euros per adult for the hour and a half trip, we bought tickets.
When we got to Bayeaux, we got directions to the hostel - "a 10 minute walk". We are discovering that the French "minute" is a significantly longer minute than a Canadian minute. If there is sign that says "back in 2 minutes" it usually means, "Come find me because I have no idea when I'll return." We set out on the 25 minute walk and passed a beautiful water wheel and the Bayeaux Cathedral, both of which were picturesque but, after Mont St. Michel, it will be a while before anything takes our breath away again.
When we got to the hostel, we got a great surprise. Built in the 17th Century, the hostel was quaint and made of stone, filled with replica tapestries of one of the town's main tourist draws - the great tapestry depicting the Battle of Hastings. The kitchen was a little scary, so Margaret cleaned everything before she used it, but, overall, we were very pleased with the price and location.
After settling in, we went for lunch - truly French, this time. The kids accidentally ordered crepes again (actually galettes - made with buckwheat flour) but did a better job eating them, though Connor skipped the slightly alcoholic apple cider that came with his meal.
We then took a bus to the Landing Beaches. We knew this trip would be educational, but here is the problem. The kids ask all kinds of excellent questions, but we don't know all the answers. Since we don't have immediate internet access, we "fake it" a little, so if any of Connor or Tessa's teachers are reading this you might have some work ahead of you! Luckily, this trip to the landing beaches included a handout describing the sights we were about to see.
We first went to Omaha Beach and were struck by the wide open view of the sea. From the point of view of the Germans, it must have seemed a pretty simple task to defend, but the sheer magnitude of the assault was ultimately successful. What was horrifying was realizing how many young men died for this success.
We walked up the hill from the beautiful, sandy beach to the American cemetery and its 9,387 marble crosses.
From there, we went to Ponte Du Hoc, where we marvelled at the sheer audacity of the 225 Rangers who scaled the cliffs to capture a strategic artillery battery. At the end of the 2 day action, the landing force was reduced to a mere 90 men who could still fight.
Finally, we went to the German cemetery of 26,000 graves. We looked at the dates and a sombre pattern emerged: 1925-44, 1926-44, 1925-44. Such a sacrifice of young life. So many. So sad.
When we returned from the tour, we wandered through the streets of Bayeux, and bought fresh bread and the makings for a tasty spaghetti supper - a 15 Euro meal for four, including wine and some apples for the next day. Not too bad.
Though a sobering day, we were glad we'd gone on the tour, and we will never forget…
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