Not much to write of a rest day except a great stroll around the deservingly famous Chang Mai Sunday night market. Set amidst beautiful colours and slow melodic music there is something for everyone from the tacky 'Walked the walk' night market t-shirt to a courtyard for locals to dine on a variety of local delights, or 'german sausage and mash' should it take your fancy.

The 11th june, a blessed day. Not only did the China embassy representive remembered us, he entreated us towards the all familiar empty office who handed over our China visas with only a slight hesitation as we had forgotten our receipts. Hurrah!!! Time to down one more breakfast courtesy of Ginny, pack the bags, check out and take a ride to the bus station. We had only time to procrastinate over a single coffee before our departure for Chang Saen.

The only complication with Chiang Saen was the choice of accommodation, we had heard that a lady (Julia) could assist us with our cargo endeavours, but the reviews of her hostel and in particular that of her husband were dire... 'dirty sheets, holes let the mosquitos in' and 'Gin might be a psychopath'.

Although the arrival into Chang Saen was glorified by its entrance through the ancient walls that surround the city it took a few hours for us to warm to the town and its pepole who seemed unwilling to assist our endeavours. Resorting to Chiang Sean guest house we were honoured to meet the creepy Jim, hmmm an psychopathic Gin and eerie Jim in the same town, not likely, add to that the avoiding capabilities of Julia despite sounding so enthusiastic on the phone and something definitely doesn't add up here. We never solved this puzzel and despite our own endeavours at requesting permission for a place on a cago vessel from Captains themselves -on the riverside as the crew hauled the heavy goods on board- we failed to secure a spot on what would have been a difficult 3 day journey. However this has been my dream, to enter China along the mighty Mekong river, in no mans land for 3 days while Laos sits to the right, Myanmar to the left, Thailand being left further and further behind and China on the approach, nice!

Instead our options are left to follow the less adventurous roads, crossing the Mekong into Laos and then further buses onward. Taking it slow we decided to make the most of our last destination in Thailand. Having already made a ride to the centre of the Golden Triangle the night before, enjoying the surprise of the beautiful giant plaques, a multicoloured vessel and a giant buddha -all dazzling under the bright spotlights- we decided to makie a similar tour in the day. No less grand although less overwhelming we revisted the markers (and took photos like proper tourists) and could finally see the space where the three countries collided with the Mekong and allowed that to be their divide. The Golden Triangle is named so due to the opium growth that the 3 nations were encouraged into, and the wealth of such produce almost equalled that of gold.

From here we raced to another touristic frontier that allows access between Thailand and Myanmar, or even just a tour mid point along the 30m connecting bridge if you only need a visa extension, there is a barbeque half way if you get tired. The town Mai Sai also gives you the opportunity to have photos beneath 'The Northern Most of Thailand' sign, check. Its town is bustling and after a quick peek it is easy to shrink away back into the lazy lanes littered with temples, rice fields, bizarre locomotives for farming, picturesque huts and even an old-school tobacco factory (Basically any detour lovers delight!).

To the east of our new home town is a hillside complex that will not be able to serve you food despite the guards insistance that there are many restaurants, but will give you great views of the river and also allow you access to the picturesque teak Uposatha Hall, a temple with some unnusual carvings worth a photo or two.

Following our stomachs back into 'town' our last stop was within a crumbling buddhist complex with monks chanting, their voices echoed through the rubbled walls and created the most peaceful and pleasurable effect on the ears.

So enough cultural stuff, a few beers from our last visit to a 7/11 for a long time to come, a waterfront meal sitting upon a mat on the street side and final packing for a border crossing tomorrow, fingers crossed.