Profile
Blog
Photos
Videos
We have come across many a traveller busing, cycling and hiking their way through the 'Stans' and one thing that they all have in common is that when they mention Bishkek it is with dreamy eyes and with a whisper of having left their glory days behind them within this capital city. So what makes the Kygystan gem so charming I was asking myself as I arrive in a flagged down bus. after being stranded on the border. At the time, nothing, my transport had dropped me off in an unknown destination, upon attaining my first inner city marashutka (mini van)it became apparent that the driver hadn't understood me (despite the furious nodding) and dropped me in the arse end of nowhere, disembarking my bag cover came loose causing me to trip over it, rip out my flip flop and stumble into a group of waiting passengers. My second driver halted and despaired how we had already gone past the intersection and I should flag another vehicle ion the opposite direction as I had gone 'much too far' to walk. Finally, lucky van number 3 left me in a position to navigate two side alleyways towards my new haven Sakura Guesthouse. What a dump of a city I decided right off the mark, and not a place to console myself after the loss of Prue the day before.
However, within 2 days I am oddly at one with the bulk of tourists awaiting their Indian, Chinese or 'Stan' visas and dishing out advice as quickly as it pours in. Everyone has adventures and opinions, knows where to attain hot fresh bread or dollars from a cash point, has tips to assist my relations with the very stern Olga at the Uzbekistan embassy (ie: always nod, say yes and don't ask questions) or suggestions on which card game is the best to play with 9 people.
You realise that you can stroll through Bishkek without hustle and bustle, with acorns crunching beneath your feet and watch your first red squirrel bounce through the trees before turning to stare right back at you, navigate any road with ease and without any dominating highways ousting you out.
The woman at the fast food bakery recognises you and offers you the new vegetarian options since yesterday she had none, while tables on every street corner sit patiently waiting to pour you a cold ice tea or fruit juice. There is charm and patience in the faces of people who have to use body language in order to help you out and then chats of distant lands and exotic meetings stretch far into the night. Bread is broken and shared, and money is swapped to whoever needs Tenge or Yuan on their route, all of them bound by a visa wait, a bike repair or just a lack of will to leave the comedic pool of new friends. All of a sudden you are won over to the Kyrgyzstan capital without quite being able to put your finger on why.
- comments
All your. I love Bishkek! Omg u want to go so bad ;p. So well written. Wish I could be there babe! Xx