Still on a down time mission since it seems we are both still suffering from the exhaustion of many days exercising our lungs inside out we flexed our rubber-like plans once more to avoid intense acvtivity. Simple Shaxi sounds ideal in words and is an ideal place to hermit it up for a couple of days, a not so popular destination (for now) Shaxi grabbed the attention of the World Monuments Heritage Foundation in 2002 whos protection act registers Shaxi as being in the worlds 101 most endangered buildings list.

On the outskirts of town Yujin bridge follows an etched dirt pathway to one of 2 crumbling (yet still marvellous) village gates. From here a maze of cobbled alleyways are interrupted by the awkward slanting Ming Dynasty and Qing dynasty (1368-1912) style buildings. The alleyways themselves complete with dainty free standing lanterns so you dont trip converge upon a huge market square. The central square is dominated by an ancient stage, tea houses, 2 huge yellow blossoming trees, and on Fridays by the bustling market of the two local tribes, the Yi and Bai, who continue to trade and therefore maintain a 1000 year long tradition.

Set in a beautiful countryside of rolling hills Shaxi appeared as a prominent location in a much earlier period of Chinese history, around 618 (Tang Dynasty period) when a trade route for tea, sugar and saltrequired breathing stations. The long and dangerous haul from Eastern China (Sichuan and Yunnan provinces), through Burma (often also reaching posts as far as Laos and Thailand) and up over the plateaus of Tibet and even Nepal, over 5000m high, makes this route equally as vicious and economically prevalent as the more famous Silk road.

The name 'tea-horse caravan oases' (Shaxi being the most intact example of its kind) derives from the Chinese officials successful ability to trade esteemed Tibetan horses for Yunnans equally esteemed tea.On the defence from northern threats, it is believed that he Song Dynasty accumulated 20,000 Tibetan horses through this method of trade alone. In return the Tibetans have become so fond of tea they now have specific customs with regards to visitor etiquette and drinking methods that have altered daily life. So much so, in fact, that the importance of tea distribution meant that the Chinese government had influences upon Tibetan officials.

Preservation, what a beautiful concept, keeping traditions and ancient buildings in tact and enveloping a place in a protective layer against the destruction of modernisation. Preserved, yes, since the anicient town was beginning to crumble to a ruin since the lack of requirment for a 'trade station' over 60 years ago. Untouched, no. There are boardwalks in construction just around Shaxis' famous bridge for better photography viewpoints and a highway is on its way to allow rapid acces of bulk tourist groups. We have caught Shaxi just in time, lazy, agreeable to its few tourists and a detour from crowds. We eat noodles for 2 yuan (30 cents) from the buckets of food spread on one of the streetside benches and find our favourite bakery for well over a year (lady fingers with REAL chocolate). Of course we also plod laps around the lanes, through the gateways and past the bridge where a man heards his gaggle of ducks with whispers and we enjoy being able to touch a history that feels so close.