The much anticipated Hai Van pass motorbike tour from Hoi An to Hue started this morning but we were anxious. A lot of bad stories circulate between backpackers over the quality of the riders and tours. Our 'Easy Riders' were recommended by Han our cooking teaching last night.

Over breakfast our riders arrived, Mr Quyen and Mr Luc. Mr Quyen introduced himself and began telling stories of his work in the army during the U.S. War. From his black boots to his sturdy figure this is a man who has seen things. Mr Luc is his younger nephew.

Looking at the size of the luggage rack on the motorbikes Matt warned them of all our belongings.

- 2 x 17kg backpacks.
- 2 x 20 litre day bags.
- A guitar.

To receive the answer "Yes, no problem my friend!".

Matt wondered why he even mentioned it.

First stop was to visit the Marble mountains near Danang. From reading the itinerary we thought that we were just driving past or through the mountains. NO. The bikes pull up and Mr Quyen says "One hour to the top and back, we will be waiting here." This had been a terrible misunderstanding. Not that we are against the climb but the clothes we were wearing for a day on the back of a motorbike were not at all suitable for the event in the tropical heat. Within minutes we found ourselves climbing up stairs and steps to the peaks (Yes, we climbed two) of the Marble Mountains. We both looked as if we had being sprayed with a hosepipe. On our shaky descent we purchased water at extortionate prices from the well positioned locals who must see this everyday. Two tired, sweaty, drained and dehydrated travelers needing fluids. They could have told us $20 we would have paid it. The irony is that on the way up we told them all we didn't want any water because it was too expensive and wondered what the look they were giving us meant. It meant, "See you in an hour!". We bought water from every stall on the way down.

Back on the bikes we cruised through Danang where we were able to see the Old US airbase where the soldiers used to come for their holidays while fighting in Vietnam. It was now time to head towards the Hai Van pass.

Or was it? No. There was still time for Char to encounter two near misses (accidents).

1) A scooter with parents and child pulls out straight in front of her. Mr Quyen skids and stops just inches away.

2) Mr Quyen tries to overtake a lorry that is overtaking a bus. Char barely fits through the gap between lorry and mountain but Mr Quyen confidently races through the closing gap.

The main event. The Hai Van pass. 25km of winding mountain roads with beautiful scenery. It has been featured on the Top Gear Vietnam Special. The weather was clear and sunny, perfect conditions. As we climbed to the top we joined many people making the same trip. At the top is where the U.S, French and Japanese bunkers are situated as this is the point that splits North and South Vietnam and an important vantage point during the wars. It was here that Mr Quyen began telling us more stories of his army life and ending it with "I never killed though, I never killed!" The second half of the pass was Hairpin galore and such an adrenaline rush. We final arrived at the bottom and drove along the coast line to the elephant waterfalls. Here we could swim/wash our sweaty bodies, but it was freezing and the current seemed to be unforgiving so a quick dip in a shallow pool was all we indulged.

For lunch we stopped looking over a lake with the Hai Van pass as the backdrop, it was outstanding. Next was a two hour, back breaking and bum numbing ride to Hue. It didn't help that we couldn't find our hotel. We decided to book into Hue Beach Bar, a little bit of a budget stretch but hopefully worth it. On arrival it was getting dark but the hut we have seems nice and the water a little bit brown but the light of tomorrow will tell. The chilled out, sexy vibe is strong though. (Partridge Quote).

M & C xxxx