The reason for our being in Werfen, 50km south of Salzburg, is so Wobbly Wheels can go see the world's biggest icecaves. I'm excited too but nothing matches a man's passion for caves, mountains and all things Man vs Wild like. The Eisriesenwelt is a walk, a bus, a walk, a cable car and another walk up the mountain 1641m high in the Tennengebirge range overlooking the Salzach Valley. The caves are 40km long but tourists can wander through about a kilometer of ice. And it's awesome! Cold, obviously, slightly scary and overwhelming, it is amazing. A narrow wooden path winds through enormous glaciers and ice sculptures, shaped by freezing winds that whip through the limestone caves and freeze the water. It's so very European, lax safety standards (the brochure described it as 'dangerless') and we can't take photos (not to boost postcard sales, apparently, but to preserve the ice). You can however take your dog. Naturally.