Yesterday we covered many miles; today we covered many more. We set off early at a cracking pace to beat the lines at the Vatican Museums. We took the most direct route heading straight back to the Spanish Steps along Via Sistina, a long straight street that funnelled the early morning sunlight and warmed our backs as we walked. It was a treat getting to the Spanish Steps and actually being able to see them. We had them to ourselves and, despite the need for speed, we had to pause and admire the stunning views across Rome in the quiet, clear morning light. Then we headed in a straight line to cross the Tiber via the Ponte Cavour and reach the walls of the Vatican just in time to line up with thousands of other hopefuls. Damn! Still, the two hour wait in line passed by pleasantly enough thanks to the joys of people watching and due to the cheeriness that comes from being under a brilliant blue sky. The anticipation of what lay ahead also helped and we had time to prepare ourselves with detailed knowledge as we read from the bible on Rome according to Rick Steves.
What can I say? The wait was well worth it and although I have been before, it was wonder anew. From the very first room your jaw drops as you gaze first upon the Egyptian mummies, coffins and statues. Next, it drops a little lower and your breath escapes as you spy the glorious sculptures of ancient Greece and Rome. Finally, it hits the floor as you walk the quarter mile of hallway housing sculptures, maps and tapestries that lead into the Raphael rooms. Here, in the living quarters of the Renaissance popes, you witness the rebirth of the ancient world in the Renaissance. Raphael (buried in the Pantheon) was only 25 when he began painting these walls in 1508 at the request of Pope Julius II. There are no words to describe the beauty and power of his work. While Raphael was painting these rooms, Michelangelo was at work painting the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, the place where new popes are elected. This is the place where your jaw would actually go through the floor except for the fact it is so crowded there is no more floor space. It is said that Raphael was even astonished when he saw this work which is considered by many today to be the single greatest work of art by any one human being. Amen to that.
If you do get to come here (whether as a first timer or on a re-visit) I have the following advice: a) book online to avoid the lines, b) be prepared to be gobsmacked beyond belief and c) take Rick Steves along as your guide. His book is so easy to follow and the insights and details he provides are excellent and enriched our visit no end.
Artistically exhausted, we left the museums and passed the still long lines waiting to get in. That cheered us up no end and we headed to St Peter's Square to be faced with thousands more tourists and another long line snaking through the piazza, all waiting to pass through security to enter one of the most famous churches in the world.
The line actually moved quite quickly and gave us only a short time to admire this magnificent square with another Egyptian obelisk and a lovely Christmas tree dominating the centre. 2,000 years ago the square was the site of Nero's Circus where the half time entertainment during the chariot races was Christian killing. Peter was crucified here and his remains buried where the main alter now stands. He is recognised as the first pope from whom all other popes claim their authority.
The mighty Michelangelo's presence again dominates in the dome which soars 448 feet to the heavens and the beautiful Pieta just inside the main entrance. Personally I love this work most of all his sculptures. How he brings such emotion and warmth to cold marble is beyond me. My friend, Rick says it is his only signed work. When he overheard some pilgrims praising the work, but giving credit to someone else, he chiselled, "Michelangelo Buonarroti of Florence did this" across the ribbon on Mary's chest.
Unfortunately we were unable to go into the crypt this time as it was closed, so we stayed above ground level and enjoyed the immense size of it all, feeling tiny in body but big in spirit.
We eventually burst back into the sunlight of the square and began the long trek home via the Castel Sant'Angelo and across the Ponte Sant'Angelo, built by Hadrian and now adorned with bronze Bernini angels. The bridge was alive with hawkers plying their wares of fake Prada handbags, alphabet wooden trains, key rings and splatting gooey stuff. At the going down of the sun, the castle and bridge and river were set aglow like polished copper. It was a sight truly beautiful to behold.
Another end to another perfect day you may be thinking? But wait, there's more. As we headed home we came upon a cheery Irish pub that beckoned us in to eat, drink and be merry. So we did.
Recharged, but feeling mellow and content, we strolled towards home under a full moon, past the massively monumental Victor Emmanuel edifice, past Trajan's Column, past the ruins of the Roman Forum, and stopped to gaze a while upon the Colosseum. It is quite something to see ruins hauntingly lit by moonlight. Now you can think ... what a perfect ending to a perfect day.