Four nights in Moscow is not enough. In such a beautiful city you need much more time, but just to have been here at all I count myself lucky.
After three nights on the train we felt utterly spoiled upon booking into the newly renovated Metropol, a beautiful old hotel just off Red Square and opposite the Bolshoi Theatre. We were served champagne in the foyer on arrival and then luxuriated in a long hot shower before dining in their main restaurant.
The restaurant was superb, a feast for all the senses - a beautiful high lead-light glass dome overhead, marble columns and plush carpet, soft background music and food to die for. We dined on pancakes with caviar to start, followed by the most delicious chicken Kiev ever made. With full bellies we trundled up to our luxury rooms to enjoy a good night's rest.
The beds were comfortable, the pillows soft, the rooms spacious, the decor superb and best of all, the rooms had free wifi. Not quite like train life at all. All in all, the Metropol put us in a good frame of mind to start our Moscow experience.
A hearty breakfast next morning was accompanied by a harpist. Then out we went to explore our surroundings on foot. It was quite beautiful watching the city come alive in the early morning light. The festive season is in full swing as the locals prepare for their Russian Orthodox Christmas which occurs on January 7. Outside our hotel is a street full Christmas markets selling all sorts of local wares, but it particularly comes alive at night with music and food and drink stalls and kids' rides, filling the chill night air with laughter and life.
Our first day began with a visit to the Kremlin where we witnessed the incredible wealth of the Tsars stored in the Armoury Museum. It housed such wonders as their coaches, clothing, jewels, and a collection of Faberge eggs, each beautifully crafted with their exquisite surprises inside. Outside we wandered through the streets and squares and churches that nestle within the famous red walls that today still house Russia's political headquarters.
Next we entered Red Square, more breathtakingly beautiful than any picture can paint. The huge cobbled public plaza is flanked on all sides by majesty - the imposing red State History Museum, the Gum Department Store alive with fairy lights, Lenin's black granite Mausoleum, and the jewel in the crown, St Basil's Cathedral. By day it was glorious, by night even more magical. We got to see it in all sorts of light and weather - under grey skies and blue, clear and dry and lightly dusted with freshly fallen snow, in the early morning light and in the dark of night, under the stars and most spectacularly of all, backlit by New Year's Eve fireworks. It is hard to believe the cathedral is actually real and not part of a Disneyland fairy tale scene. Its colourful domes tower into the heavens; inside it is a stone warren of intimate chapels.
Our second night in Moscow saw us dining at the Moldavian Consulate with a fine spread of food and drink and music and dancing before heading off to Red Square to herald in the new year with midnight fireworks.
Security was high with soldiers everywhere and security checks on entering the square. The crowds were not too big until about 11:30, and then they seemed to come from everywhere. Just before midnight it started to gently snow which set a nice feel to the scene. Suddenly, without any fanfare or countdown or music or warning, it was 12 o'clock and the sky exploded with color and sound. A short 5 minutes later it was all over and we were swept along with the crowd to the only exit not blocked off by soldiers. Not sure where we would would end up, we finally recognised a landmark and backtracked to our hotel. Being in such close proximity to the square, our hotel was in the blocked off security area and we were only allowed in thanks to showing our trusty hotel key card.
The fireworks were not a patch on Sydney's. In fact, they were not even as good as the ones at our school fete, but still, I was in Red Square with all those people being dusted with snow and the atmosphere was worth it.
There's a wise old Russian proverb that goes... "Revelry is jolly, hangover is heavy." I guess many of the night's revellers can relate well to it, but I behaved. I learnt my lesson at Christmas time. So it was with a clear head I faced the new year and Moscow draped in white from a steady night's snowfall.
Our tour took us out of town through snow covered country side to Sergiew Possard where we explored this beautiful monastery in the morning and learned to paint Matrioshka dolls with a local artist in the afternoon. The next day saw us at another monastery followed by a visit to Novodevitchy Cemetery, a most interesting place of artistic, attractive graves of the rich and famous such as Boris Yeltsin and other politicians, actors, artists, dancers and so on. After lunch we got to do some serious shopping in Arbat Street, a pedestrian-friendly shopping mall with plenty of souvenir shops. This tour is so full that we have had precious little shopping time, so we were like kids let loose in a lolly shop.
Our final day in Moscow began with a trip to a sight near the Moscow University high above Moscow River. The view down over the city was lovely as daylight drifted in. Then, from above the city to below, we descended into the subway. Moscow's Metro is a work of art, built of the finest marble, wood, copper and bronze. High arched ceilings are hung with massive chandeliers, and rich mosaics, sculptures, reliefs and paintings depict great moments from Russian and Soviet history. During the afternoon we visited Kolomenskoe, an old imperial estate which is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. After enjoying the beautiful scenery and buildings, we had a bit of fun and entertainment participating in a marriage ceremony from the time of the Tsars.
As we boarded our 4:20 fast train to St Petersburg a heavy snow storm hit the city, but we proceeded, warm and snug inside and on time with many warm memories of Moscow to mull over during the 4 hour trip.