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We met our friends, Margot and Jocelyn at the airport, and had a smooth flight to Sydney. It was pouring rain in Sydney, much to the joy of the whole drought stricken country, but it meant our connecting flight to Santiago was delayed a little. The 11 and a half hour flight passed surprisingly quickly as we slept well in the comfortable seats. We landed in Santiago earlier than when we left Sydney, thanks to gaining a day by crossing the International Date Line. In Santiago we rushed to make our next connecting flight to Buenos Aires, but needn't have worried as it, too, was late.
The flight over the Andes was spectacular, and before we knew it we were landing in Argentina, the place where God and football are worshipped equally. After almost 24 hours of travel, we decided to brush off the cobwebs with a walk to explore our hotel neighbourhood.
Buenos Aires was bustling on a Friday night and the evening was clear and warm. We found the pink palace where Eva Perón gave her famous speech in Mayo Square.
As the evening cooled and the light faded we passed many beautiful old buildings and impressive statues immortalising heroes of the country. Exhausted by this time, we found an Italian restaurant close to our hotel. Italian food is quite prevalent due to post war immigration. We slept deeply that night and into the following morning.
Our first full day in Buenos Aires was very warm. We strolled along the river, where redevelopment has changed the old wharf area into a lovely walkway flanked with restaurants. We then followed Comic Strip Walk through San Telmo, where we spotted many sculptures paying homage to Argentina's most famous cartoonists.
We passed through some interesting outdoor markets before reaching La Bocca, a most colourful neighbourhood. In La Bocca we passed the big blue and yellow stadium which is home to the Bocca Juniors, the much loved local soccer team. There had been a match on, being a Saturday, and fans roamed the streets in their supporting colours. Food aromas wafted around the streets, and colour and music bombarded us from everywhere. We eventually found Caminito, La Bocca's most famous street - an open museum full of colour and art, named after a famous tango.
Dinner on the waterfront at Puerto Madero was a perfect ending to the day. Sipping wine as the sun went down whet our appetites for the humongous Argentinian steaks we were about to devour.
Our second day was a scorcher, and as we walked another long trek we negated any excess calorie intake so far. We explored Recoleta, enjoying more beautiful art work and architecture, and passing through local outdoor markets on the way to the city's famous cemetery. The Recoleta Cemetery is named after the convent of monks who were previously on the site. It became the city's first public cemetery in 1822 and its vaults are architectural monuments from a time when Argentina was a powerful emerging economy. We found Eva Peron's resting place where she lies with her family.
Fortunately for us a nearby rooftop bar offered good views over the cemetery and cold beer to refresh us before the long walk home.
Our third day was just as hot, but gentler on the feet. The girls headed off on a foodie tour and Reg and I ambled down Florida Street, one of the oldest in the city. It is a busy pedestrian street full of shops (some selling supposedly the best leather in the city), shoe cleaners, and people touting Tango shows and money changing. Turning onto Avenue de Mayo we were glad to walk in this wide tree lined, shady street with its interesting cafes and old bookstores. We found the famous Tortoni Cafe, the oldest in the city, but also the most popular, it seems. The line of diners waiting to get in snaked down the street. We chose another cafe, which was lovely, and had a delicious meal of ravioli and a tortilla washed down will cold Patagonia beer.
A siesta was in order as a late night lay ahead. We went to Madero Tango, set by the waterfront, and enjoyed dinner and a show and the company of some Brazilian tourists at our table. The last tango in Argentina for us, and it didn't disappoint.
Tomorrow we board our ship for Antarctica.
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