07.12.10 My Camping Safari

Day 1 Safari!

I wasn't expecting to see that much on this morning's boat trip as this part I had already done last week. This seemed to take the pressure off a bit and I really enjoyed it. The group I was with seemed really great - quite a few Brits which was very bizarre! The group consisted of Alistair and Rodgery (two doctors from the UK), Sanne and Mau (from Holland but had only just met), Hector from Cheshire, Eddie from L… (in the north on the right of the country), with Harrison and another girl coming from America.

Memorable moments from the morning were the hippos in the water with their mouths wide open, a crocodile sitting on the banks of the river with its mouth wide open (apparently to regulate its body temperature) and the realization that if I came on safari in peak season, even though I would get to see more animals, I would have to share the experience with maybe 30 boats (rather than 4).

We had a lovely lunch and then set off with Jenson our guide for the next 2 nights. I had been told that he was excellent and very knowledgeable but rather quiet, so you had to ask him questions and listen carefully!

As we entered the park people could not believe t that I had not seen any elephants on the safari in the park on Friday. We had been driving for maybe 5 minutes when we saw three elephants directly in front of the vehicle. It was hilarious as Dr Al shouted 'ELEPHANTS!' at the top of his voice. Its strange because although you know you need to keep pretty quiet, your instant reaction is to scream at the top of your voice with excitement! We all burst into fits of giggles, mixed with a lot of 'shhhh!!'s.

The afternoon drive was thoroughly delightful for me because of the amount of elephants e saw and within such close proximity - with not ONE vehicle in sight. It was just us and the elephants, so relaxed and peaceful. The elephants had their calves so we saw them close up and playing in the mud.

When we arrived at camp I was so excited! The toilet was hilarious -a toilet seat and cover bolted to a stainless steel frame and over a hole in the ground. I thought it looked fine but the Americans said it was revolting, but it was nothing compared to some of the festival toilets I've experienced! There was bush shower too - which Sanne tried later and said it was quite nice.

After dropping our bags we then went for an evening drive to try and find some lions. We saw Kudu, many more elephants (scratching, weeing, fighting, nursing, playing etc), giraffe, impala, waterbuck, bat eared fox, loads of bird life including the Botswana national bird (can't remember the name though! Doh!) lizards, a beautiful lioness and a male lion (far in the distance). What an evening. We returned to the camp, very happy campers indeed.

White (the camp house husband if you like) had got the camp fire going and dinner was ready. We all sat around eating and drinking wine (apart from Dr Al had bought along gin and tonic so a few were on that). I had potatoes, rice and butternut squash. No meat substitute but I didn't care, it was really tasty and good to get some veg inside me! Desert was Match Biscuits and butterscotch - an odd combination, but scrumptious all the same! The group chatted amongst themselves and I got to know Sanne a little more. She seemed lovely. Then after a round of Happy Birthday for Harrison whose birthday it was tomorrow and champagne (not for us, just him), I turned in. I was sharing a tent with Sanne and we could not stop gassing, it was great! Then we got a fit of the giggles listening to the boys in the next tent as they were talking about girls, and being allergic to them!! It took me ages to get to sleep, especially hearing the debate around the campfire about Fifa!!….

08.12.10

Day 2 Safari!!

Oh I had an awful nights sleep. The strange noises coming from outside and inside (Sanne sleep talks) the tent; and heavy rain meant I kept waking. But we were up at 5.00 and our alarm clock we were told would be White! So at 05.00 on the dot, we heard 'Wake Up Time' being said in a monotone voice. It was quite amusing really! We had a quick wash with warm water he had left outside each of our tents, had breakfast and then were on the road by 5.45.

At around 6.30 we saw our first male lion close up. He was beautiful. We saw him drinking first and then he walked past the vehicle so closely he made Sanne jump! He stared directly at me (although I think this could have bee one of those illusions as others said he did the same!). I was in awe; my breath was truly taken away by this majestic animal.

In addition we saw warthogs, a fresh buffalo kill with kites feeding on it, buffalo, a letchwee (a gorgeous tiny antelope with big ears and straight horns), a lone wilder beast, the smoking remains of an elephant (which had been burnt to prevent other animals eating it, it had died from anthrax poisoning), vultures feeding on the same fresh kill but hours later and lizard. All of this, and it was only 11.30!

We headed back to camp and Al, Eddie, Rodgery, Harrison and the other girl got picked up as they were only booked to camp one night. Once they had gone, the camp was really peaceful. Some of us had a rest, I wrote in my diary and chatted with Mau and Jenson had a rest. Suddenly we heard elephant noises! They sounded so loud and we thought they must be quite close! Mau and I went to the perimeter of the campsite (having been warned not to wander too far) with our binoculars to see what we could spot. It was so exciting! Finally through the trees we saw the head of an elephant, then another and another! As we headed back to where Sanne and Hector had been resting, they pointed over in another direction. WOW! There was the biggest elephant ever, walking towards the campsite! And then it turned out to be a whole family of elephants including a calf, just walking slowly past our tents, minding their own business! It was truly amazing - and breathtaking.

Once Jenson was up we had tea and biscuits (we were warned that we would come back from the trip fatter!!) and went for an afternoon drive. It was about 3pm. We saw giraffe, buffalo, elephants, baboons, zebra (yay!), more giraffes, more elephants and various plant and bird life. The last sighting of elephants was unforgettable. They walked up from the river and right past the truck, pretty much surrounding it. They were there for ages. And it was great to have only the four of us in the back of the vehicle - well there were three actually as Sanne was in the passenger seat. Nobody jumping up in front of you so you couldn't see…… I think the elephant is fat becoming my favourite animal. Some of the baby ones were lying down as they were so tired, another was playing in the dust of the track, some were simulating sex (although both males, but is to do with hormones Jenson was saying), some fighting a little. All of this, and with such a beautiful sunset which I hope will stay engrained in my mind forever….. The skies here have been stunning, as has the landscape. Its astounding how it can change so much and even on our drive we went from thick bush, to thin dried grassland, to the river, to trees. I have been a bit choked tonight, as I just do not want this to end.

Jenson has been such an amazing guide. He has been doing this for 20 years and all around the national parks not just Chobe. He has been a guide at the Oka Vanga Delta, Savuti, Moremi and Namibia also. He gave us so much information on all the animals, was able to tell what birds were flying in the sky even without binocular (a little like dad with his planes!) and able to tell us who all the footprints belonged to, where they were headed and when. He told us how to listen to the birds and observe other animals to find the lions. I find him a bit of an inspiration actually. He is so devoted to something which he loves, and when asked if he had a wife, said that when he had had enough of the animals he would find a wife, for now that would come later...

Back at camp, the sun having now set, we sit around the roaring fire, lapping up the atmosphere. There is an amazing crescent moon in the dark blue sky, with hundreds of stars shining brightly. Yet another stunning visual to remember.

With so few of us tonight, we will be eating at the table with Jenson. We talk about marriage, children and a whole raft of other stuff. Later Mau and I sit with Jenson around the fire and talk animals. I love hearing about his stories - so there was the 60 year old women who awoke in the middle of the Zambezi rived have slept walked there!, the pair of 70 year olds that went camping for 14 nights, a lioness that got killed by an impala (she was showing off a new hunting technique, it went badly wrong for her), a lion that turned the safari jeep on its side…..

It's my last evening sat around the campfire and I am really sad to be leaving. I am so glad I decided to do a camping safari and not just leave it at the one day.

09.12.10

Departure… boo hoo L

It's a lie in this morning with a wake up call of 5.30. We are all in high spirits and I really hope that we spot the leopard this morning… I think I am being picked up at 8 so plenty of time for that!

Soon we spot mongoose, a buffalo's corpse (which has a bad smell)….. And then I see a jeep heading towards us and am told that this is my lift! Its now only 7.00am what a shame. As I quickly gather my bags and pass paper round to get email address, I slip Jenson 200 pula as a thank you for the experience and what he added to it. I say my goodbyes and jumped in the other vehicle.

As we drive along the guide suddenly stopped the vehicle - he had spotted the lioness mother, followed quickly by a young male! They walked close to the vehicle and it was a lovely leaving present!! And with that, I am whisked out of the park and to Kasane bus station, where I wait for my bus to arrive….

Before too long I am joined by three official looking people - not sure if they are police, or security, but either ay they look pretty scary! However they are very helpful and it turns out that I will be waiting for a further 23 hours for my bus to turn up. They have all gone today and no more are expected! Oh no! I need to get back! When I asked what I should do they say either hitch or get the big Gaborone bus at the Kazungula border crossing. As I do not know Kasane and where I need to go to hitch, I approach a combi that agrees to take me to the border post. I chat with a guy called Fiji on the way, seemingly pleasant, wants my number, I say I haven't got a phone (and hope to god that no one calls me now!!).

We reach the border and I see the Gaborone coach, already getting full. I rush off the combi and although I hear shouts of 'the bus is full! Its full!' clamber onto the coach in a desperate attempt to remain firmly on there. Well it doesn't look very full, so I take a seat by the window and begin to relax…. Until I start hearing talk about tickets! What tickets? On the way up you just scrambled on. I assumed it would be the same here. But as it turns out, you most definitely need a ticket, unless you are a handful of people who appear to be able to bribe the conductor….. I beg to stay on and offer to stand the whole way - which seems to work. So of we set for Francis town - and I'm standing.

So for 6 hours I am trying not to fall asleep - it's actually quite difficult believe it or not! And rather amusing when your legs buckle from under you…. Not for the other passengers when you land on them I guess…. We stopped at a checkpoint and we all had to get off and have our bags searched, walk on a sponge mat which would protect from foot and mouth and then get back on the bus. At Nata (four hours in) we were told to be 10 minutes. I still haven't learned - it ended up being the Botswana 10 minutes and not the British 10 minutes - so this added to my standing time. The next 20-30 minutes were spent squeezing into incredibly small spaces so that other passengers - most of whom were wider than the isle itself - could get past. Sods law that the last passengers on the bus had seats at the back, were VERY LARGE and had stinky meaty food. Great! And another 2 hours to go…

When eventually we arrived at Francistown bus station I was so pleased to be getting off the coach! And to see Lovemore and Petros waiting for me in exactly the place that the coach stopped, with their big grins! I gave them a hug and they took my bags for me, we walked to the truck and Kedi was there, and we hugged. It was all really lovely!! It was good to be back in surroundings I was familiar with. And oh to sit down in the truck! Heaven!

On the journey back to Tshesebe Petros filled me in on the preparation for the Beauty Pageant - it sounded like it was all under control!When I was dropped off at the house, a very excited Sally came bounding up to me. I spent the next few hours telling Cecil and Denise all about my trip and they seemed in quite high spirits. And now feeling like a stuck record…… I got an early night!