Sawatdee Ka!

This is Thai for "hello" with the feminine polite marker. A man would say, "Sawatdee Krap" (pronounced crop). My journey to speaking fluent Thai has begun! As of now I can pronounce only a few phrases, but having so many fluent speakers around (including the English speakers I know!) gives me lots of motivation to learn as quickly as possible.

You could probably all sense my excitement at being in a new place in my last post, but that was only the first day! Having been here five days now, I can assure you that my excitement has not diminished one bit. I am falling in love with this city, and Thailand in general. Everywhere I go there are new things to see, and new people to attempt to speak Thai with. English is not as prevalent as some would have you believe! (although I try to mostly stay away from the super touristy areas) I am often reduced to laughing at my incompetent Thai and pointing/gesturing to make myself understood. But this is all a part of learning, and I know that with time and practice I'll be fully understood.

So much has happened in the past few days, I couldn't possibly recount it all! I will content myself with sharing a few highlights, in no particular order.

The second night of my stay here was absolutely incredible, in a way it could never have been had I not known a "local". I wandered by myself down to the night market and edged my way through stalls and carts and people, trying to take in all of the colors and sounds. The Night Bazaar, as it is called, covers a HUGE area outside the moats. It is mostly just vendors set up all along the sidewalks, creating a tiny passageway between them and the permanent shops that tourists and Thais swelter in, and inch their way through. The items for sale range from jewelry, to knock-off designer bags, to local hilltribe crafts, to everything else under the sun that you probably don't really need. There are also a couple of little alcoves off the street that boast food and beer gardens, along with more vendors. That night I tried a dish called sticky rice with mango, which was very sweet and very rich; more like a dessert than dinner! The funny thing is, if you order from street vendors, there are NO trashcans to be found anywhere! I was so confused, because the streets generally seem fairly clean, but a few mornings ago I saw lots of street sweepers out just sweeping up the garbage from the sidewalks and little corners where people piled it the night before. Odd, but functional I guess.

After I had enjoyed some sticky rice I got a call from Nick saying I should come join him and his group at their friend's re-opening of his bar/restaurant/massage place. I got in a taxi, gave him the phone, and Nick gave him the address. I was so disoriented by the time we got to a tiny alley and the driver was telling me to get out. I took a leap of faith, paid him, and soon found Nick upstairs on a balcony, surrounded by mostly French speaking people, with some English and some Thai mixed in. I got there just in time for a few drinks and then an incredible authentic Northern Thai dinner. We sat on the floor at low tables, used sticky rice as "spoons" to eat the curries and other dishes, and all exclaimed to Chai (the owner) over how good the food and atmosphere was. It was an experience I was lucky to have, as Nick said these kinds of meals are usually expensive and pretty rare. After dinner and chatting about the best baby names for a girl's twins that were due soon, Chai explained to everyone that he wanted to give short massage samples to anyone who wanted them. He unfolded a table in the middle of the room, then came up to me and said, "you can be first!".I was a little nervous about getting a massage in front of everyone, but all for a good cause, right? The massage itself was wonderful, and I did feel quite relaxed for the rest of the night. One of the guests announced that it was St. Patrick's day, which I had completely forgotten, so we all moved to the Irish Pub for a little while before heading home.

I was all set to go to bed, but when I got back to my guesthouse the staff were sitting downstairs drinking whiskey and soda and encouraged me to join them. How could I refuse the opportunity to practice my Thai?! So I sat with them for another couple hours, joking with them, receiving a Thai nickname (the Thai word for glass) that I can barely pronounce, and eating a soup they made for me on the spot. When I learned how to say "I'm full" (Im), they would say, "Mai im", which means "not full"! Finally I made it to bed, reflecting on my absolutely amazing night.

The next few days I kept exploring, emailing schools, and hanging out with Nick and friends. One moment in particular stands out.

On my way home in a songthaew, two monks got in after me. At first I was a little nervous, shifting over more to make sure I didn't touch them, and concentrating on keeping the bottom of my feet firmly on the floor. Soon they struck up a conversation with me, asking where I was from, and all of a sudden we were discussing Buddhism and they were inviting me to their Wat (temple) for "Monk Chats", which are times when people can come and talk to the monks in English about anything they want. They were two of the friendliest people I've ever met, and I left the taxi feeling lighter than air, and so happy to have spent those moments with them. I am excited to visit the monk chat and meditation hours today.

Yesterday's task was to find more permanent housing for a month. Apartment searching was frustrating, but in the end I found a guesthouse with a lovely little room that I can have for $3 a night, for as long as I want to stay. It is in a more vibrant area of town, so I look forward to some fun days and nights ahead. I also heard back from AUA and have an interview with them on Tuesday. Monday Nick promised me he would help me find and lease a motorbike, and then take me toodling around with him to get used to the Chiang Mai streets and traffic. I can't wait to have my own transportation!

I will let you all know how my first foray on two wheels goes the next time I post. For now, happy living and chok dee! (good luck)

E-mail me with stories of your own at [email protected], or leave a comment! I love getting feedback!