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No alarm! I slept as long as I wanted today, which turned out to be only 7. Peru has me trained to an early schedule. Today is my free day to wander Arequipa at my own pace. So, after a leisurely breakfast and shower, I sorted out a few things I'd like to see online and set off. The girl at the desk advised me not to go to the area 2 blocks south of the square, so of course I got a little lost and ended up there. I sought out the San Camilo market, which was a permanent building the size of an Iowa State Fair building that housed hundreds of vendors selling everything you could imagine; flowers, goat heads, fresh blended juice, toys, raw grain, fruit of every imaginable description.....I had to sit down and have a juice. Starfruit and orange. Yum! After that, I sought out the Museo de Santuarios Andino where they have the frozen bodies of 14 children the Incas sacrificed to appease the gods of the nearby volcanos. Only one was on display, but she was amazingly well preserved after 500+ years of being frozen in a ceremonial tomb on the top of a volcano. Pretty good creep out factor peering at a frozen dead person through a pane of glass! After that tour, I set off on a long walk with minimal idea how to find a restaurant I'd been told about. After asking around, I managed to find the Palamino that serves traditional picante style. That means spicy. I had pork ribs al horno, potatoes that made my nose run and salad. To wash it down I got a big cup of chicha, which is a traditional Indian drink of purple corn, mixed with fruit, spices and beer. Very low alcohol and quite refreshing. I made my way back to the hotel with a full stomach and lounged by the pool for a bit. Around 530, Katja emailed me and we met up at the Santa Catalina Convent, a huge 5 acre town within a town built from the same white stone as most of the city's old buildings. We explored it with no guide because an English speaking one never showed up. As it started to get dark, we found that all the dark spaces the nuns had used for living quarters were lit up by candles and the occassional hearth with a wood fire going. The atmosphere was halfway between reverent silence and haunted house creep out, with all the dark corners and bloody Jesusi (what is the plural of Jesus?). I was really glad to have the flashlight setting on my phone to be able to see a lot of the artwork, utensils and plaques. The place was so big that it had several streets with names, 3 fruit tree arbors, many many living quarters/houses and quite large art gallery of kind of ridiculous Catholic paintings. Never did figure out why Mary likes to keep 3 human heads up her skirt. Afterwards, we wandered the streets in search of food for Kat, but as usual she could not be pleased by anything. Picky girl! We ended up at the Peruvian version of Walmart (Todo Cuesta Menos) and I saw the modern version of the traditional market. It was horrible. Painfully poorly run, too. I was going to buy a custard apple, because they are delicious, but the lines were massively long and didn't move at all. I ended up putting my few items back, said my final goodbyes to Katja (in a supermarket of all places) and went to one of the little streetside tiendas where I bought some mango juice, a fresh mandarin orange and a yellow fruit that smelled amazing, but tasted rather bland. I gulped my mango juice and realized why I was so thirsty when I got back to the room and looked in the mirror and saw that I was quite red with sunburn from walking around all day. Oops! Really should invest in a hat. I prepared all my stuff for my flight in the morning and slept soundly.
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