We left Kigali and drove on wonderful tarmac to the border with Tanzania. It was here that the road conditions changed drastically and became a corrugated red earth track. We had to cover a fair distance to make it to Mwanza for the weekend, to meet up with a great friend, Gus, doing voluntary dentistry work for a couple of weeks. We actually met Gus on our honeymoon when in Kenya so were looking forward to an African reunion... We should have been in Mwanza at lunchtime on Saturday and were doing well up to the point where we had to catch a ferry across a river to reach the town. The ferry should have run every hour but the engine had broken and we had a four hour wait! Not only that but when we were queuing for the ferry we realised we had a puncture - our first one since leaving London! Eventually we arrived at the Tunsa Lodge, a great 'beach resort' lodge on the edge of Lake Victoria. Gus very kindly put us up for a couple of nights which was pure luxury compared with camping! We had a great, boozy night catching up and a hungover day relaxing on the beach whilst watching kingfishers dive into the shallow water to catch fish. Gus told us all about his voluntary work out here - doing dentistry in leper colonies and in mining communities - a big change to his usual practice in Leeds. We left Tunsa Lodge armed with goodies from YoYo, the French owner. He was concerned about our welfare for the next leg of our journey (i.e. camping) so filled our coolbox with two chickens, porc chops, fruit, veg, water and even snickers bars!! What a star - we would really recommend Tunsa Lodge to anyone wanting a fun break on Lake Victoria. It was great catching up again with Gusto and leaving messages on his answer machine at 2am. Gusto must have felt glad that Rich could impart his extensive knowledge of photography and lens cap holding techniques. As an avid and an excellent photographer Gus was lucky to have learnt a few tricks of the trade from such a photographic genius!! (he he he...:-) ) Perhaps he will put this new found knowledge to the test at Kicheche Camp in the Masai Mara.