Cabin fever has set in and it was decided for sanity purposes alone an overnight escape from the campsite was required. Francine, Steph and I negotiated an overnight trip to Sodwana Bay so that Steph could do some diving on Saturday and Francine and I could visit the Sangoma. Interestingly a day trip costs R450 and our overnight trip was costed at R470, makes you wonder when you deduct the R120 for accommodation what the other money is for in the day trip. It is only one of the foibles of African Impacts set up that causes confusion and frustration to paying volunteers. We were of course happy as it was minimal for the overnight and we could go to amazing restaurants and order off menu!!!

We left on Friday after lunch. Anton one of the guides drove us and it was agreed that we would split the cost of his food, which considering the price of food meant that even paying for one and a third meal you never spent over 8 pounds and that was for 'expensive' meals. We first went to a craft market and got a few more African souvenirs and then headed for the beach. The sun was shining, the water was clear and we were excited. A quick change of clothes and we were in the water. After about 10 minutes we saw a local boy running towards our stuff and thought we were about to watch a grab and run of our bags. As he got closer and started clapping and shouting we realised that we were about to experience a grab and run by a monkey! We then came bounding up the beach also - am sure our run was Baywatch worthy, apart from the hand clapping and yelling. A quick thanks and move of our bags to the water front and we were back in the water. Local boys from about 8 - 15 years were all fishing on the beach for fish that were about 10 - 15cm long. I asked if they wanted them bigger and they looked at me like I was an alien and confirmed that, no, this was the size they were chasing. The following day when I saw for sale on the street that they had battered and deep-fried the whole fish I understood why they preferred the smaller fish. Seems you just put the whole thing in and chew and then spit the bones out.

Saturday morning Francine and I went to visit a Sangoma. A Sangoma is a Zulu witch doctor who can tell you about your life and future. We started by hearing about how you become a Sangoma and it transpires that you don't get to choose to be a Sangoma, you are chosen by your ancestors and made sick. When you don't get better and the doctors can't help you, you visit your village Sangoma who diagnoses your new destiny. Once you commence your training your health improves and that is your job for your life. Sangoma's train each other and provide consultations for their villages and provide herbal medicine. After learning this we then had our individual readings. I went first; Anton stayed to provide the translation as the Sangoma, whilst I believe he spoke English chose to speak in Zulu. There were 3 Sangoma's in the room and all were dressed in an interesting fashion. The main guy doing the reading had on like a doctors coat but it looked like a blue and white coat had been cut perfectly in half and sewn together. The coat then had a rectangle of animal print material hanging from the neck like a cape. I was just glad that I was not there for fashion advice! The female sangoma had on a sarong and then beads in an x across her chest over her shoulders and nothing else. Seems that in Zulu culture you have to cover from waist to knee, but boobs, well everyone can see those - they are nothing and man do you see a lot of boobs. We had worn very loose trousers and so were given a sarong to tie around us as Ladies do not wear trousers. A small detail that Anton failed to mention that morning. He had a least told us to sit like ladies, which after a request for more information, we were informed meant to sit with your knees together - no crossed legs.

My reading went along the lines of the Sangoma rattling a pile of rocks, sticks and shells on the floor and then flinging them out in front of him. 2 of them would then look at them in wonder and poke them with a wooden stick and speak what sounded like excited Zulu. At times he would share details through Anton with me. I did lose a little faith when he told me I had a headache and when asked what I could do to ease that headache, he said - take tablets! Guess I will have to wait and see if his other predictions carry any weight and come true in the future. After a few more delicious meals we headed back to Thanda and no water - guess you have to take the good with the bad.