J: So the train wasn't too bad to Varanasi in the end; we found out the tickets we got were booked on top of the already full train and we weren't the first waiting for a cancellation either! After talking to the conductor, he basically explained our tickets meant you could sleep anywhere as long as nobody is there. So we got on the train and found an empty section of beds, bonus. We slept for some time enjoying the ride then the proper ticket holders came along, but it was a nice family and they let us stay and in the evening when we were both falling asleep (Sam even fell asleep and started leaning on one of the lads) the father told the young guys to get off the bed so we could lay down, he was my hero at that point.

S: The next thing we knew was the kind man who let us sleep in the bunks woke us up saying 'you're here, you're here'. We had been delayed for about 4.5 hours and we made it into Varanasi around 1am in the morning. After walking the streets for a good hour we managed to find the hostel we wanted and they even let us in after waking them up. We had a lovers breakfast at the Brown Bread Bakery with fresh fruit, yoghurt with muesli, omelette, tuna, bread and jam (Let's see how long this one is before the Delhi belly). You could volunteer to help out at the local school they support, but they told us that is was so hot, even the kids are not at school! So as we were unable to do that, we made a donation instead.

J: We went for a stroll along the Ganges, well that was an eye opener. As we approached the cremation sites we could smell something in the air, which unfortunately smelt like a nice BBQ. We sat and watch 4 cremations happen. The men that perform the ceremonies are outcasts, who now have the monopoly and charge what they like for cremating the bodies. No women partake in the ceremony; to start with they dunk the body in the Ganges, place the body on a lot of wood, the family perform their ceremony and then it is set on fire. After an hour or so they mix up the logs to burn the body fully, which did involve various limbs being flung around. It's amazing to think that people come from miles away just to die in the town and be laid at rest in the Ganges. We also saw one body just being taken out by a boat and dropped in the middle of the Ganges, families have this option if they can't afford the cremation. The Ganges are a funny place, they are clearly so sacred and being there had a presence. It was interesting to see people washing, swimming and drinking it with the cows laying in the water and adding floaters to the mix of bodies.

S: So after our rather interesting afternoon. We went and watched a 'Ganga aarti' ceremony at Dasawamedh Ghat, which went on for a few hours. It was beautiful to watch even if they didn't have an English translation. It consisted of 10 alters with both men and women performing religious dances. The place was packed, and this happens every night at 7pm.

J: It was still very hot in Varanasi at 45+ degrees but the humidity was so intense our sweat didn't dry at all, after standing at the evening ceremony it looked like we had just been standing in the monsoon! A lot of showers were required.

S: We set our alarm for 4.30 the next morning to take a boat ride along the Ganges. It was astounding especially as we got to see our first sunrise in India on the last day. When we were waiting for our bus we decided to go to the local 'Cafe'. We started to play 'hot dice' and all of a sudden this chair is put down next to us and the owner wants to know how to play. He didn't do too badly at all - in fact he won. He liked us so much; he gave us free drinks while we taught him.

J: India has been an incredible assault on the mind and senses. By no means can it be called a clean place but religion is so strong here it's their life, it's mind-blowing to see. Once you get past the obvious touts who just wanted money, the local people are really kind and helpful. Because people are so poor nothing is wasted, they recycle anything and everything they can. Something as a couple we can learn by. I've loved the food, especially the street food, although nothing is really spicy here even when I ask for extra chillies. It's definitely been a baptism of fire coming to India and I have loved it!

S: India has been incredible, although some parts you just have to get on with and ignore what is happening around, as life can be very cruel. I have learnt many things about myself and how we can be very centered around our own problems, when in fact, many people every day suffer due to poverty. It's strange to think we ruled this country and yet they still love us, oh and not forgetting the cricket!! Thanks for being the first part of our trip India.