So it was over to the west coast and before heading to Glacier Country, we stopped for a night in Jackson Bay which was touted in the book as being at the end of "one of the world´s best drives". Well we don´t really think these guide books have got it right as the drive wasn´t that spectacular. And they seem to have missed something vital... It should have been promoted as "the land of the EVIL SANDFLY!". Now they might look like harmless little fruitflies but they´re like the most malarial potent mosquito genetically mutated with a horsefly and cross-breeded with a bot fly. EVIL. Within moments of pulling up at a lovely beach, the beastly things immediately started hurling themselves at the windows, trying to get through the gaps where the rubber seals have fallen off (or been ripped off) the stupid vehicle (note our love for the van is starting to wane). A restless night of "should we keep the windows shut and die of heat exhaustion and carbon dioxide poisoning or should we open the windows and die of sandfly mutilation?" ensued.

What followed was immense. Glacier climbing. Wearing sexy snow jackets and crampon boots. With ice picks. Bit precarious at times and I had flashbacks to that Joe Simpson film where he falls down a crevasse and has Boney M playing over and over in his head whilst his body and mind starts to die. Luckily we survived to tell the tale - no death by crevasse and no death by sandfly.