We arrive in Phnom Pehn at 3pm after a very hot and uncomfortable bus ride. Phnom Pehn is like any other capital city we have been to on this trip; chaotic. The odd charming building that has survived the war stands out against the high rise buildings and seedy "massage" parlours. There is a lot of these "massage parlours around, with names such as p**** horny, and sex panther. You don't have to look far to see a young Cambodian girl with an elderly man old enough to be her Grandparent. But there are some parts of Phnom Pehn which are fab, there are plenty of markets to browse around practise our haggling skills, the food market inparticular was my favourite. What ever you fancied for dinner that night you can guarantee it would be here. Infront of each stall is a set of carpets on the floor, you pick what you want and then take a seat on the floor and within minutes your food is brought over piping hot and delicious. Last night we had chicken and vegatable noodles with spring rolls all for $1.50. Thats another thing that unusual here, although Cambodias national currency is the Reil it is only used in markets, the accepted currency is US dollar.

Once we have unpacked and freshened up we head out for some sight seeing, first stop is Tuol Sleng Museum. This was once a school but under Pol Pots regime it was turned into Security Prison S-21. The classrooms were turned into torture chambers where pain was inflicted on prisoners in a hope to gain confessions. The buildings have a very ghostly feeling as you enter each room and peer into the cells. There are photographs in each room of all the prisoners held in S-21, lots of these are children. There are many original torture tools in the rooms and in the ground of the prison. Its horrible place to visit really but a must see if you really want to understand what happened here under Pol Pots regime.

The next morning we visit the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek. This is where most of the prisoners held at S-21 which we visited yesterday were executed. Choeung Ek has many graves and original reminders of the war and what happened here. Its hard to believe all this happened just over 30 years ago as now the area is very peaceful and full of fruit trees and singing birds. With admission you recieve an audio tour with gives you a very indepth explanation of each grave and the atrocities that happened here. As many of the guards and survivors are still alive now you can hear personal experiences and confessions from both guards and prisoners. As ammunition was expensive all of the prisoners here were killed brutally by being beaten and bludgeoned to death. A memorial stupa has been built that contains over 8000 skulls, but the most upsetting part for me was the killing tree. Next to the killing tree is a grave for women and children, here babies were held by their ankles and smashed against the killing tree whilst their mothers looked over them, once the babies had been killed the mother was then bludgeonded to death and fell into the grave. It is heartbraking and brings tears to your eyes picturing what happened in the exact spot where you stand just over 30 years ago.

We go back to the hotel where I nap for 2 hours before heading out to the markets for dinner. This is the street market experience Tom has been after, sitting crossed legged on the floor tucking into a plate of noodles. We go back to the hotel and Tom makes himself comfy for the night watching all of Saturdays matches on TV, I go to bed and try and sleep off the sniffles. Tomorrow morning we are up early for a half 7 bus to Kampot our next stop in Cambodia.