It has been on my bucket list to undertake one of the world's most renowned rail journeys on the legendary Ghan, the world's longest north-south train journey, and I have now fulfilled this dream.

This was the Ghan Expedition from Darwin in the Northern Territory to Inverleigh in Victoria. A 5-day/4-night all-inclusive trip of a lifetime.

A bit of history;

Construction of the Ghan rail line began in 1878 - and the train's inaugural journey from Adelaide to Alice Springs took place in 1929. Starting in August 1929, the service's name is an abbreviated version of its previous nickname, The Afghan Express. Named after the Afghan cameleers who, from the 1860s to the early 20th century, helped explore and build infrastructure in the Australian outback this iconic train takes you through some of the most remote and fascinating landscape. The trains' logo of an Afghan on a camel is in recognition of their efforts in opening up the harsh interior of this land to the rest of Australia. Apparently, there are tens of thousands of feral camels now roaming the plains of Australia, which causes a problem for local farmers but we did not see one of them on our travels. The Ghan railway divides Australia down the middle like a zipper and this ultimate journey through the heart of Australia makes you realize just how vast this country is.

To give some perspective, Australia's Northern Territory (NT) is simply enormous. While it may look modest on a map, the NT is almost six times the size of the United Kingdom, and were it considered an independent country, it would be the 20th largest! That is before we even enter South Australia!!

Some fun facts;

• 3470- kilometre journey - the classic 2979-kilometre journey from Darwin to Adelaide and then the 673-kilometre journey to Inverleigh
• The train is almost a kilometre in length.
• The average speed of just 85 kilometres an hour with a maximum speed of 115 KM per hour.
• The Ghan was used to transport servicemen for training and deployment during World War II and to this day there is an annual tribute trip between Adelaide and Darwin.
• A typical Ghan runs with 36 carriages, including guest carriages, dedicated crew cars, dining carriages, kitchens, luggage cars, and power vans.
• The train is pulled by 2 Pacific National NR class locomotives.
• During each journey, there are 49 onboard crew to keep the train running and provide service to guests.
• The Ghan is an all-inclusive rail journey, so once you've paid for your ticket you can sit back and enjoy your trip.

The Train

On the Ghan, everyone has a sleeper cabin. These range from single sleepers to Platinum Class.

Gold Single has a bed that converts to a comfortable seat by day, with shared toilet and shower facilities at the end of the cabin.

Gold Service in a twin cabin includes a long three-seater lounge suite taking up one wall of the cabin, that converts into bunk beds at night and a compact en suite with toilet, washbasin and shower, and twin bunk beds. Bear in mind they do mean compact - the toilet, shower, and handbasin in a closet. A curtain is pulled around the showerhead to prevent the toilet and basin from getting wet.

The Platinum cabins have either a double bed or twin beds side by side, and the rooms are almost double the size of the Gold Service rooms. Platinum guests also have access to the Platinum Club for dining and socializing while on board, as well as a few added extras, such as continental breakfast and drinks served in-cabin.

Most of the travel on the train happens overnight. For the rest of the time you are socializing, getting ready to go on excursions, resting after excursions, or eating and drinking. There's very little time to get bored on the Ghan.

The Queen Adelaide Restaurant on The Ghan for Gold Class guests is open for breakfast, a two-course lunch, and a three-course dinner and is named after the consort to King William IV, who also gave her name to the southern city we're heading for. Tables for four line both sides of the carriage laid with crisp white tablecloths. Menus focus on regional flavours with ample choice for the fussiest of eaters. People with allergies are well-catered for. For each meal you are seated with someone different.

The Outback Explorer Lounge is the social hub of the train so is the perfect place to have a couple of drinks, to meet other travellers, or just to hang out and relax while on board the train. Passengers on the Ghan tend to be well-traveled so there are plenty of stories shared.

THE GHAN EXPEDITION

Our journey commenced in Darwin. We were collected from designated hotels by the train staff and it is here we learned that our booking requirements had not been met. Travelling together we had requested cabins opposite each other and found that we had been allocated cabins at the opposite ends of the carriage. The train staff were of little help and advised that we should see staff at the terminal. Not a good start to the trip!! As we waited to board for our 0900 departure we found another big disappointment (as it was for most of the passengers) we did not have the iconic red locomotives. Instead, we have 2 blue and yellow locomotives that could be for any old train. Not to be deterred, we admire the shining flank of the train with its iconic insignia of a mounted cameleer glimmering in the morning light and decide we are going to enjoy this trip.

Once aboard we found our allocated cabin and then had to try to change with other passengers. Fortunately, we found some fellow passengers willing to swap so we could then unpack. Our Hospitality Attendant showed us the facilities in the cabin and carriage, arranged our dining times and off-train experiences, and then let us get settled. I had elected to go with a Gold Single cabin. It's compact but equipped with everything needed for the trip. Every inch of space has been maximized. A bench seat is my perch to watch the movie reel of the countryside unfolding outside by day. By night, it flattens into a single bed. There is a small wardrobe but nowhere to store a suitcase. You will be much more comfortable in your cabin if you check your large bag when you get on the bus at your hotel and bring a small carry-on for the train journey. There is a small handbasin in the cabin and you are provided with an amenities pack and sunscreen which is a nice touch. The cabin's wood panelling is dark, and the furnishings looked tired and outdated but overall it is comfortable enough for a few days.

Once we had unpacked we decided to explore the train and headed down to the Outback Explorer Lounge. As luck would have it our cabin seems to be furthest from the amenity cars so we have to go through a series of doors through several carriages to reach the lounge and restaurant cars. Never mind, we will get our steps up each day!! As we leave Darwin we are invited to enjoy a glass of bubbles. It might only be 0930 but it was a time to celebrate as we embarked on our journey and met some of our fellow passengers. All too soon we are called into the restaurant for our brunch - the first of many meals we are going to enjoy - before we arrive in Katherine in the early afternoon for the first of our off-train experiences.

Katherine, located 320 km southeast of Darwin, is known as where "the outback meets the tropics". With a population of around 8000 people, it is the fourth-largest settlement in the Northern Territory. I chose to spend my afternoon at Nitmiluk Gorge on one of two cruise options available, exploring the natural beauty and cultural significance of the gorge. A scenic helicopter flight is an optional extra for additional cost. Nitmiluk Gorge was formerly known as Katherine Gorge until it was renamed with an indigenous title - 'Nitmiluk' means "place of the cicada dreaming".

Nitmiluk's necklace of 13 gorges is separated by bands of sandstone. We explore both the First Gorge & Second Gorge with a 500-meter walk between them, where the rocky ridges provide a glimpse of the landscape 20,000 years ago. Think still water holes that are as glassy as a mirror. Along the way, cultural guides from the Jawoyn people shared their knowledge of plants, animals, dreamtime stories, and culture. It was 39 degrees Celsius as we walked between the 2 gorges. The walk between gorges has steps and uneven ground so may not be suitable for those with mobility issues. We were surprised by the lack of wildlife - perhaps it was too hot even for any birds!!

We headed back to the train in time to have a pre-dinner drink. There are plenty to choose from including basic spirits, red and white wines, beers, and non-alcoholic beverages. It was then off to dinner where I tried crocodile dumplings followed by grilled saltwater barramundi and finished with a coconut and raspberry ice cream. Oh boy, this locally inspired menu each day is going to be a delight. Following dinner, it was back to the Explorer Lounge where Isabelle recommended a delightful muscat as a nightcap before heading back to the cabin to settle in for my first night.

Personally, I slept well once I adjusted to the movement of the train and in fact, found this actually lulled me to sleep. Day 2 saw me awake refreshed and ready for another day. Started the day with breakfast served in the restaurant. We had a choice of fruit juices followed by starters - I chose tropical fruit and natural yogurt parfait and then a choice of mains. With my allergy, I feared I would be limited but Bruna our attentive staff member assured me this was not the case. Food is prepared fresh so it is easy to not include the allergen. I enjoyed some grilled eye bacon, beef chipolata, and wilted greens followed by artisan toast with a selection of local preserves. What a way to start the day!!

Day 2 saw us in Alice Springs. Born out of the red sands of the outback and named after Alice Todd, wife of the town's superintendent, the town is now populated by over 33,000 inhabitants and is geographically the centre of Australia. When you consider it is 1,500 km from the nearest major cities of Darwin in the north and Adelaide in the south, it gives you a glimpse at just how colossal our land Down Under really is!!

With a full day to discover the best of Alice Springs you can choose from 4 different off-train experiences or for an additional cost, there is an optional upgrade to an Uluru Fixed Wing Scenic Flight. I elected to do the Alice Explorer and we started our day with a visit to the Alice Springs School of the Air. Known as the largest classroom in the world the school covers students in an area of 1,300,000 sq kms - that is 10 times the size of England and double the size of Texas!! It is fascinating to learn about this unique school that commenced in 1951. In the early years, there were three half-hour lessons each week where children listened without being able to ask questions or talk to their teacher, much like a lecture delivered over the radio waves. Teachers soon realised that students needed interaction and a question-and-answer segment was introduced. Today students interact via computers and come together from across the Outback for In-school weeks several times a year. Can you imagine living 500 kilometres from your teacher and nearest school friend? It's a long drive for a play date or parent-teacher meeting!

Anzac Hill is the perfect spot to get a 360-degree panorama across the town and surrounding areas. Commemorative signs and sculp­tur­al pieces line the drive to the car park near the top of the hill acknowledging all those who have served in the many theatres of war. We also visited John Flynn's burial place before we were taken out to the Desert Park where we were provided with a lunch of cold meats with a wide range of salads accompanied by a nice glass of wine.

We then visited the original Royal Flying Doctors Service (RFDS) Alice Springs working base that commenced in 1939. The pioneering holographic show forms the centerpiece of the facility as John Flynn (founder of the RFDS) tells the story of his vision and its realization into the RFDS of today. The RFDS museum, located in the original Radio Station House, has a large display of historic medical equipment as well as replica aircraft used by the service. The RFDS has been providing vital medical care for over 90 years to thousands of Australians living in rural & remote areas. The current base is at the Alice Springs airport with a paid staff of doctors, nurses, and pilots. Every station in the Outback must have a working landing strip. Depending on medical severity, patients are taken to hospitals in Alice Springs, Adelaide, or Darwin.

Our last stop for the day was the Alice Springs Reptile Centre. A fun and informative talk introduced us to a range of reptiles including Perentie Goannas, Thorny Devils, Frill-neck Lizards, and the star of the show Terry the Saltwater Crocodile. Snake-bite first aid and how to avoid encounters with snakes in the wild were highlights of the talk.

We had time to return to the train to freshen up before setting out for the Alice Springs Telegraph Station where we enjoyed an Outback BBQ Dinner. Old river red gums stand guard over a cluster of sandstone buildings as we are welcomed with a drink and our tables are set out under the stars. Prior to dinner being served we had time to have a look around. Established in 1872 to relay messages between Darwin and Adelaide, this is the best preserved of the 12 stations along the Overland Telegraph Line. You can learn about the day-to-day life of the first European settlement in Alice Springs and realize the importance of the telegraph line which slashed communication times from two months to three hours. After dinner which I have to say was mediocre at best we were entertained by local musicians and had a talk from an astronomer who pointed out the sights of the night sky. A bus took us back to the train at the end of the evening where we enjoyed a nightcap before retiring for the night. We have to change our clocks tonight as we move from the Northern Territory into South Australia - lose an hour's sleep.

Day 3 saw our arrival at Manguri, an extremely remote train station about 40 minutes or so from Coober Pedy. After breakfast, we boarded buses for the drive into Coober Pedy and our off-train experience for today. Again there was a choice of included experiences or an optional Painted Hills and Lake Eyre Scenic Flight. Having never been here before and not likely to return I chose Explore Coober Pedy.

Coober Pedy is a South Australian mining town located 846 kms north of Adelaide that boomed after 1915 when the first opals were found here. The name comes from a local indigenous term kupa-piti which means "white man in hole" which is kind of apt!! Coober Pedy is also known as the opal capital of the world. This mining history is part of the town's story but the most interesting aspect is the style of living here. Many of the residents live underground, digging their homes into hills or beneath the surface. They do it this way to maintain a constant temperature of 23 degrees Celsius inside, in a place where outside it can get above 40 degrees in summer and to freezing at night in winter.

We started the tour with a visit to Umoona opal mine and museum. This is an original old mine on the main street of the town which has been converted into a tourist attraction. We are given an informative talk about the formation and mining of opals as well as a glimpse of what life would be like living underground. Cannot say it is the life for me but it was not as claustrophobic as I expected.

A visit to St Elijah's Serbian Orthodox Church was a unique experience. The whole church complex, with a church, a community hall, a priest's house, and a religious school, is carved out of sandstone 3-17 metres below ground.

Sticking with the underground theme we then went to the Quest Mine where we were wined and dined underground. After enjoying a Greek lunch we had the chance to fossick for our own opals complete with our own Ghan Expedition helmet.

After lunch, we boarded our bus where we left the confines of the township and headed out into the countryside. It is clear why this landscape has been so popular with filmmakers (think Mad Max Beyond Thunderdome, Priscilla Queen of the Desert, Red Planet) as we head towards the Kanku - Breakaways Conservation Park. This stark desolate landscape is made up of a series of orange, white, and red eroded hills rising over the rocky plane and look remarkably similar to the images from the surface of Mars. This region was once a vast inland sea over 115 million years ago. 'Kanku' means 'shelter' in the traditional language and this is a place that has provided shelter from the scorching conditions to animals, plants, and people for thousands of years.

As we traverse the park we also see the century-old Dog Fence which is the longest fence and also the longest man-made structure in the world. The Dog Fence stretches 5400km across three Australian states and was built with the goal of keeping sheep and dingoes separated.

To finish this wonderful experience we toast the day with a glass of bubbles atop a mesa in the Kanku-Breakaways Conservation Park before heading back to the train. As we head back to the train I reflect that in a country where 85 percent of people live within 50 kilometres of the coast, it is sometimes easy to forget what life is like in these small remote towns.

Day 4 saw us arrive in Adelaide after traveling through the countryside of South Australia. Heading into Adelaide we noted that the terrain was becoming increasingly greener after the red dust of the centre. Adelaide is the capital city of South Australia with a population of around 1.5 million people. After arrival, we were all put onto buses where we had a quick city tour before heading to the Adelaide Oval for a luncheon in the Ian McLachlan Room. During lunch, we were entertained by Ray Martin, an Australian television journalist and entertainment personality, who shared stories and some of his photography with us. Ray believes that everyone has a story to tell and every story is worth retelling. After lunch, it was time for our final off-train experience. Once again we had a choice of 4-5 different experiences and I chose to do a behind-the-scenes tour of the stadium. Our guide shared captivating tales of the history of the venue, the sporting greats who have competed here, and how the iconic heritage blends seamlessly with world-class facilities. With access to restricted areas including behind the 100-year-old scoreboard, we were fascinated to discover the secrets and relive moments of sporting glory. We finished the tour with yet another drink before being returned to the train for our final night.

Day 5 saw us arrive in the small rural township of Inverleigh about 80 km from Melbourne. We couldn't take the train through to Melbourne because it's too long, at almost 1km long, for Flinders or Southern Cross Railway Stations. The stop is at Inverleigh because it is the straightest part of the track from Melbourne to Adelaide. It is here that we said farewell to our fellow passengers as we finished our iconic journey.

Final thoughts

When one reads about the Ghan in the media words like, first-class, legendary, elegant, luxury, iconic, indulgent, and unforgettable are used. It is the ultimate journey through the heart of the Australian continent. There is no getting away from the fact the Ghan is very expensive, whichever service (Gold or Platinum) you decide on for your journey. However for me whilst enjoyable it was not luxurious. Not enough care was taken with my booking and we were not left feeling special. The cabins were not cleaned for the entire journey, and towels and face washers were not changed. My disappointment was probably all the greater because I had looked forward to the journey so much for years with much anticipation and, in the end, it was all a bit of an anti-climax.