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When I was about 19 or 20 years old I used to get a rock climbing magazine called High. I can still see the picture on one of the front covers in about 1995 of a sea stack called the totem pole. I was so amazed by it I always hoped I'd see it one day. Today was nearly this day!
Having had a lazy morning and leisurely brekkie after a cold night (sleeping bag zipped up all the way!) I chatted to the rangers about walking and red and black spiders. I learnt that any spider with a pointy end should be avoided!
I packed up and headed out on a path running east of the campsite to Cape Hauy (pronounced Howie). At first the path ran along Fotescue Bay and started to climb into the cool eucalyptus forest, where I saw my first wild echidna, so cute snuffling for bugs. The views back to the bay were fab and the path newly refreshed, with some great stonework. Thinking about this took my mind off the uphill climb!
The path opened out near the top and you could see it stretching across the cliff tops getting closer and closer to the edges as it progressed. There was no shade on the top and it was a hot sunny day which made walking harder. I met a few people making the return walk and figured the path couldn't be too bad if they were coming back. I should tell you that I don't do sheer drops very well, they make me a bit light headed :)
I reached a point with a cliff on the right and a big hole on the left... focused and kept walking. Then I reached the warning sign, great! I kept walking. The views were spectacular but turn by turn the drop offs got closer. I was brave at a few where there were rocks you could lean against and have a peek but the rock plateau at the end was a bit too much for me. I sat down and got within a meter of the edge, which I was pleased with. I saw the candlestick, the totem pole's bigger more easterly brother, but I hadn't got the guts to hang my head over the cliff edge to see the totem pole,which stands 65m high in comparison to the 200 and something meter cliff edge I was standing on. I looked beyond to see if there was anyway of doing it but there wasn't. I have to admit that I was a bit disappointed not to see the totem in its full glory, but equally I didn't want to pass out and plunge into the sea! The lonely planet says you get spectacular views of the candlestick and the totem pole, I disagree. In retrospect the photos that I've seen have either been taken from the sea or halfway down the opposing cliff face, neither of which I had plans for.
For a good 20 mins I used up a reasonable amount of adrenaline and stopped for a break quite some walk back from the end of the track. I enjoyed the remainder of the 3.5h 9 km walk. This is my last walk from the 60 Great Short Walks Tasmania Booklet, which is a must have if you are visiting this area.
After some grub I spent the afternoon pottering and went to the beach. I found a very funky hermit crab whilst I was paddling in the warm ( by Tassie standards) calm clear waters. I rolled him back into the sea after his photo shoot as the gulls were looking interested. It clouded over so I headed back for a nice chilli washed down with the delicious Devil's Corner Pinot Noir.
Jules' 60 Great Short Walks Completed List
5 Cape Hauy 9k
52 Apsley River Waterhole and Gorge 6k
53 Friendly Beaches 5k
54 Cape Tourville 1k
56 Wineglass Bay & Hazards Beach Circuit 11k
59 Painted Cliffs 5k
66 Fossil Cliffs 5.5k
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