Part 87: Bomod-Ok water falls....
Despite the drop in temperature I slept quite well in our quaint and comfortable guest house. Probably because there was no need for air con for the first time in a very long while and the temperature was more like back home in England.
Anyway, all three of us went for the money saving option and shared a tiny room with barely any space to walk around the beds, nor was there anywhere to store our back packs either, but for less than 250 pesos each, (£3) none of us really complained. Well at least not until we had to take a freezing cold shower with a bucket and pale (or tabo). We weren't exactly spoilt for choice here, especially when there appeared to be a few unsafe electrical wires hanging down that had to be plugged into a dodgy electrical socket, which would have apparently enabled us to take a mildly hot shower - not surprisingly I decided to take my chances with the ice cold bucket of water instead!
Seriously though, what a way to wake up this was - I looked outside the window to be greeted by early morning misty clouds that cloaked the surrounding mountains and luscious tall pine trees. This was far more beautiful and idyllic than I ever imagined Sagada to be - there just seemed to be a positive peaceful energy about this place that was hard to describe.
Maybe it was the clear dust free air, or the thick woodland forest making it look and feel even more enchanting, but believe you me it was not hard to fall in love with the sanctuary that was Sagada or its friendly people.
So far, the few locals we met were very down to earth, who were doing their utmost to protect and preserve the culture here.
Many of them were different in appearance and more indigenous than the South.

There was a kitchen downs stairs which we were allowed to use so the girls went to a convenience store to buy eggs and bread for breakfast, then the plan was to trek to a nearby village called Fidelisan to see the rice paddies and famous Bomod-Ok giant waterfalls. So we took a Jeepney 5 km north of Sagada to the jump off point at Barangay where we began our trek down a series of steep steps and a rocky pathway that led to the old mountain village situated half way between the falls and drop off point.
The start of the trek was fairly easy at first, providing us with spectacular views of the hills and the valley, that would lead us directly into the heart of the small community.
Patience was a virtue here and the trek became a little more challenging especially in the heat, but we carried on walking till we reached the village.
Apart from the few people who lived here, there were no other travellers to be seen - this was not a tourist spot by any means and I loved that.
The steep steps continued, passing a series of houses, playing kids, free running chickens and pigs just roaming. We ducked underneath washing lines where locals were busy just getting on with their life's - this seemed a little intrusive at first and I got a few looks, then we had to end up paying a small conservation fee before they let us pass, but luckily it only amounted to a few pesos which went towards the preservation of the area. I broke the ice, trying to make conversation and it worked. They told us about the gratitude they felt towards their ancestors for leaving such blessed, magical lands for them to live in, and after looking around I could not agree more!
To get a quick glimpse into the lifestyle of the community was a good experience and I remember thinking on the way down here how difficult it must be to live in this village with tricky access in and out.
After a drink and a few minutes of rest, we moved on and made our way further down the hill. From here the trail was steeper, and we kept walking until we reached huge level emerald rice paddies either side of us - you could clearly smell the rice in the air and by now my senses were in over load! Here we were, in the middle of these amazing terraced hillside's, and the panoramic view was nothing short of spectacular!
Getting an up close and personal view of rice fields and the busy farmers who were working on the land was great to see, and made for some awesome captures.
Running water flowed through the fields and the well maintained pathway was replaced by large rocks and stepping stones, stopping briefly to take more pics of the magnificent view before continuing downwards, until we reached a hanging iron bridge over a steep gorge. Veering off to the left we could hear the water fall even if we couldn't see it yet. Then after a few more minutes, there it was - the 200 foot high Bomod-ok falls translated as 'big falls'
It was incredible, and was most definitely worth all the effort to get here. Cascading high above our heads from a naturally contoured cliff and crashing into a huge rock basin below, this was larger than any waterfall I'd seen in South East Asia so far!
I was eager to get a closer look so hopped down several rocks, taking good care incase I tripped on the slippery stones - you could feel the cold droplets and splashing water on your face. None of us planned on swimming in the pool but it was so inviting we couldn't resist, even though the water was extremely cold, I knew that soaking in it would be the most refreshing part of the trip, and yes it was every bit as cold as I thought it would be.
A few more people started to arrive, mainly locals and young children trying to sell us coconut juice; we were yet to see any tourists so far on this trek.
After an hour or so of soaking, we agreed it was time to go. Feeling completely energised, we started our ascend back to the jump off point - which other than being up hill happened to be the same, and all we had to do was trace our footsteps back.
Climbing back was so much harder compared to the trek down here, and just to make things more difficult the sun intensified. I was blowing hard but even though my thighs were aching the appreciation of the landscape was just endless.
The path which was only wide enough for one person was getting a little congested with villagers carrying anything from heavy sacks of rice to piles of wood on their backs so we stepped aside letting them pass.
The girls were keen to stop at the village and rest, also to try 'Halo Halo' - the sweeter than sweet dessert made with beans, syrup, sugar, jello, condensed milk and fruit. Then while they lapped that up, I again tried to interact with the locals which in the end just turned into an exchange of smiles despite my best efforts.
A gruelling hour after leaving the village we finally reached the road and took the jeep back to Sagada - the last stretch had been exhausting, so we stopped to try the famous lemon pie and local yogurt at the 'Lemon-pie house' which we were told about on the bus trip up here from Manila.
It was situated at the bottom of the hill, slightly away from the rest of the cafes, although you couldn't really miss it with its bright yellow exterior and big sign outside.
I instantly loved this place with its, quaint bohemian vibe and comfy low wooden seating.
All three of us, in particular Cy, who despite her tiny size had the appetite of a large dinosaur, were so hungry, especially after all the walking and we were eager to sample the food. There were lots of appetising dishes aside from lemon pie on the menu, but we opted for the classic recipe which I understand took nearly 12 years to perfect.
Between us we devoured the lemon pie before ordering another quick fire round - it was seriously delicious, or 'masarap' in Tagalog - and for me, more than lived up to its hype. We washed it down with Sagada milky mountain tea and sank into the comfortable giant cushions to spend the rest of afternoon resting our tired legs.
So far it had been an amazing day but it wasn't over yet. The plan was to rest back at the guest house for a bit and have a chilled evening, before getting up at 3 am to trek to yet another of the famous sites Sagada had to offer, which we were told had to be seen to be believed.
Next stop, the sunrise at the sea of clouds.....