Part 85: Lucban Pahiyas festival...
One thing which was on my mind that I had been considering for a while, was to have a tattoo in the Philippines, such was my affiliation for this place. So when the opportunity came up to get inked right here in the hostel by well respected Filipino tattooist Ed Astilla, I jumped at the chance - especially after seeing some samples of his work.
I'd set my mind on a Chinese dragon design, and this was a particular area of expertise that Ed specialised in. The hostel even advertised it as an event and made a poster which was already generating a bit of extra hype, plus another added bonus to this, was that for the third time, my travel companion Jack and I would be crossing travel paths right here in Manila, and I was looking forward to seeing him again - even more so when he also agreed to get inked with me.
I was a little nervous on the morning waiting for Ed to show up, not knowing what to expect with the hostel staff and guests in view, but Celina the owner seemed excited that it was going on in the lounge.
Just moments before he arrived I still had not fully made my mind up on exactly what design I wanted, but soon as Ed showed up he put my anxious mind at rest.
'Dont worry' he said in a softy spoken voice that didn't match his persona and image at all. Shaven head, large black pierced plugs in his ears. Tribal tattoos covering all his skin that was exposed, and an uncompromising rock metal look!
We had a discussion and quickly agreed on an image, that apart from the outline, he was going to freestyle directly onto my back - which was perfectly fine by me. Then after skilfully preparing his needles and ink, whilst. The hostel guests looked on, Ed asked me in a calming tone 'are you ready?' I was already feeling apprehensive and began to perspire, not only because everyone was watching, but the AC picked a great day to completely pack up too.
'Go for it' I replied.
The first few moments of a tattoo are always the most uncomfortable and this was no different because until your body gets used to the pain, you generally tense up slightly, plus I began sweating even more than usual in the heat whilst several of the backpackers watched on taking plenty of pictures. Luckily it wasn't to long before I began to relax a bit more; back pieces are painful, make no mistake. This was turning into another great experience and a tattoo session I would never forget despite the pain! Several new arrivals walked in wondering exactly what was going on and and had to double take for a moment, then proceeded to take pictures just as Ed was working on a particularly sensitive area of my spine. I did my best to look comfortable and cool, which of course I wasn't.
He worked along steadily for nearly 4 hours till he finished, and I was more than satisfied with the end product. Not only had Ed exceeded my expectations, he also adapted the style as he went along, adding in layers of shading and even more detail - now it was Jacks turn to suffer.
Whilst I was getting inked, he came up with a random design of Tom and Jerry on his calf! it was just so him. So Ed carried on; despite a few laughs from everyone, and shakes of his head - but Jack wasn't in the least bit worried what anyone thought - and that's why I liked him so much.
He laid on the sofa like a sultan trying to hide his pain whilst Ed worked his magic, and apart from the occasional grimace, it was completed in no time at all.
There could not have been more of a contrast between the tattoos that we both had, but it was certainly something that neither of us would be forgetting in a hurry.
I enjoyed taking Jack around a few of my favourite spots in Manila after, and we sat watching the famous sunset, whilst drinking beers on Moa bay, talking about our next destinations. Although for now it would sadly mark the end of our shared travels - he was heading to Borneo, then Hong Kong before flying back to the UK. I would definitely miss him
A few days later I was heading to a small provincial town in the country side called Lucban, which was around 3/4 hours south east of Manila by road to see the famous Pahiyas festival - meaning the festival of decoration, an annual colorful event in honor of San Isidro Labrador who was the patron saint of farmers, as a thanks giving for harvest.
The journey there involved a painstaking combination of motorcycle trikes, jeepney's, MRT trains and a packed bumpy bus through winding rural roads and several provinces - all in sweltering sticky heat!
It certainly wasn't easy to get there, but we eventually left the hectic city behind, arriving in Lucban nearly 4 hours later due to severe road works.
Despite the nauseating journey we were greeted by the beauty of Mount Banahaw, also known as the 'Holy Mountain' to some. Its a three peaked active volcano, considered so sacred by pilgrims and locals, that the water in the surrounding springs is deemed as holy for allegedly having beneficial qualities.
I stopped and gazed at the volcano wreathed in cloud for quite some time and took several pictures of the view. Standing at over 2000 meters tall, it truly was spectacular. The fresh country side air and rolling farm lands were a welcome relief from Manila's occasional smog.
I was so taken by the amazing landscape, that behind me I didn't even notice several locals in motorcycle trikes trying to get my attention. They wanted to take me to the festival entrance which was a short distance away, but not quite short enough to walk in the scorching heat, so I first agreed a price with one of them (something I've now become quite accustomed to) before the driver pulled of as I was still trying my best to squeeze into his side car.
These great little forms of local transport aren't exactly designed for comfort, nor for tall westerners like me either, but they are still great fun nevertheless. Scores of other people were all heading in the same direction in a long convoy, passing hundreds of coloured flags and festival bunting all the way up one of the main walkways into the town center.
There was already an excitement in the air and hundreds of people making their way to the market square to see the parade.
I'd never seen anything quite like this before; all the houses along the old streets of Lucban were artistically decorated with a grand display of harvest, fruits, vegetables, and a very unique multi coloured wafer thin rice paper called 'kiping' - resembling bright tissue paper adorning every household.
The Kaleidoscope of colours against the brilliant blue sky backdrop was an amazing sight, and the people come up with different unique designs every year, as they showcase their artistic talents in decorating their houses, all trying to out do each other, with cash prizes going to the most decorative.
Smiling children and families were also dressed in colourful outfits to match with the surroundings and street vendors too, selling anything from local cuisine to Longanisa; a delicious spicy salami style chorizo sausage famous from this region.
Other vendors were giving away food for free wrapped in bannana leaf which was part of the tradition and hospitality - it was an extraordinary festival that dated back hundreds of years.
Barefoot young kids were climbing up huge wobbly bamboo poles more than 50 ft high towering above the crowds who gasped a few times after some hair raising near misses of them nearly falling!!
I continued walking through the bustling crowds and headed towards the main square to see the parade's huge bright carnival heads and giant figurines, along with even more people dressed in the colourful harvest - it was like something out of a fairy tale, especially with a prince and princess leading the procession. Several bossy lady boys resembling bridesmaids adjusting the dresses and uncomfortable looking outfits covered in ripe fruit, whilst hundreds of people clambered to take pictures, much to their annoyance which was slightly amusing. Luckily I didn't feel their wrath as I wisely stood slightly back.
The famous St. Louis de Toulouse old church, built as far back as 1593 was quite a spectacle in the square with its old facade. This had to rank as one of the most amazing churches I'd ever seen. Of course, I couldn't resist my signature camera pose in front of it with arms expanded out as if to embrace the view in all its glory in front of me.
To the left of the church, huge stages with live bands playing added to the atmosphere too but as much as I was enjoying the spectacle, the heat was almost unbearable and I had to find shelter at a small cafe just to cool off.
After spending the entire afternoon looking around and taking in as much as my brain could handle, wandering the quaint streets, and eating local food, I then made my way by Jeepney to the regions other famous nearby landmark; The Kamay ni Hesus Shrine. Its a giant 50ft statue of Jesus on top of the hill of the ascending Christ, and one of the Philippines most famous pilgrimage sites - like their own version of Lourdes in France. People visit here all year round and it was busy with mostly Filipinos attending the holy masses. On entering the site I was met by Noah's Arc, a grotto of carved animals and a healing center constructed solely from donations.
At first with the scorching heat, I wasn't entirely enthused at climbing the steep hill of 321 winding steep steps even though it was amongst spectacular gardens and carvings depicting the first stories of Jesus, from the last supper to the crucifixion all the way up, and finally the resurrection at the top, but once there I was rewarded with another birds eye, panoramic sweeping view of the country side, mountains and the volcano which was to my left, and directly ahead was the statue of Mary looking up to her son. You cant help but feel the importance and religious significance of this powerful shrine, but its hard to put into words the emotions on peoples faces, especially some who had ailments, and slowly struggled to make their way to the top with the help of family members to prey.
I had my own silent moment observing the surroundings and respectfully acknowledged a family, then slowly made my down.
After a quite brilliant day it was time to head back, but unfortunately for me there was quite a wait with hundreds of people queuing for busses to the city, and I eventually got back late at night completely exhausted, although now even more rich in the knowledge from all the creativity, flamboyance and spirituality I witnessed that the wonderful provinces of the Quezon region offer....