5.Lesotho - 20 July to 22 July 2009

On Monday 20 July left Golden Gate NP and drove through and around the Drakensburg Mountains, which at this time of year are brown and barren but very scenic and spectacular. We eventually reached the bottom of the Sani Pass, renowned for its tortuous, steep ascent over rocky and rough dirt road. You leave South Africa on the way up, andcross the border into Lesotho at the top. It was more challenging than we'd anticipated, especially on one hair-pin bend which was wet, icy and muddy due to a melting iced waterfall. But enjoyed going up there and once at the top, a fabulous view and sense of accomplishment. It took us about 2 hours to travel the 8 kms, taking just the odd photo along the way.

Having survived some freezing nights already, we decided not to camp and stayed at Sani Top Chalet, with dinner and breakfast included, and accommodation in thatched rondavels with open fire and gas heating. Good decision as it was -8 the next morning! They also had a welcoming wee bottle of Amarula, not unlike Baileys. We have since bought a somewhat larger bottle for those cold nights camping, and have since learnt that it's made from the red fruit of the Marula tree, a native tree in South Africa which hasn't been cultivated.

We are enjoying the interesting people we meet along the way, one of which was a South African who was filming Slogget's Ice Rats, which survive very nicely in the freezing climate and look a little like small, light brown guinea pigs, or a small version of the Dassie found in South Africa, but not related. They are lightning fast - we only caught a glimpse of two. Everyone is very friendly and very interested in our camper. At border crossings they always ask what we have inside, but when we tell them we are Australians and camping throughout Africa, no problem.

The next morning drove across Lesotho, with snow on the peaks of the mountains and often snow on the southern slopes. Quite a remote landscape with little villages perched on the sides of the mountains, and children running out with hands outstretched for money, local men on mountain ponies or walking, with the traditional Lesotho blankets draped around their shoulders, herding small numbers of sheep or cattle or goats. Drove past the diamond mine, and also 'Afri-Ski', a single ski slope with one chair lift and a few chalets. There are apparently only two ski slopes in Africa.

Stayed at New Oxbow Lodge, at Oxbow in the north of the country, recommended by a South African couple we met at Sani Top Chalet. Still too cold to camp, and still very mountainous and snowy. Met another lovely South African couple from Durban, who were holidaying and skiing at the Afri-Ski slope we had passed. Enjoyable and warm overnight stay.

On our final day in Lesotho we drove to Bhute Bhutu and then south to the capital, Maseru. This part of the country turns into lowlands with some farming. Crossed the border into South Africa without any problem, though had already passed a couple of police checkpoints where they showed great interest in our registration, and once again asked what we were carrying in the back. One policeman was very pleased we had enjoyed our stay in his country. And we really did enjoy it.