I will keep this short and sweet because the internet is useless (and the computer has probably found a way to transfer a virus into my skin!) We stayed at a lovely guesthouse (which was inevitably being renovated at this time of year; as is every GH in India!) with a roottop terrace and fantastic views of the Taj Mahal. On our first Day there we payed the extortionate fee of 750 rupees each (about 10pounds; now this may seem ok but bare in mind that you can live for about 5days in India on this amount and that Indians only have to pay 20rupees!) but it was definitely worth it. The thing is a little smaller than we were expecting and it seems to be lop-sided - the small towers are apperently pointed away from the Taj in case an earthquake causes them to fall but I swear the whole thing was leaning to the right! Inside is the tomb of the king and queen who built it - but that was pretty unintersting - we were more amused by the silly slippers we had to wear to go in! We went at midday hoping that only mad dogs and us would be present... half of India was there! They all wanted pictures with Katherine, im sure she was far more interesting to them than the Taj. We met a 'gardener' who showed us all the best picture spots. We tipped him 20 rupees to which he replied "50"... we've stopped tipping now because they are ungrateful. We had a rest and only ventured out later when it had become cooler. We walked down to the river followed by a cyclo man the whole way (bare in mind it was barely 200m - he must think we are all lazy, I blame Americans). We got a boat across the river with a lovely couple - we paid well over the odds but it seems nobody else was prepared to get ill from the almost black water. The views here were great... the mirror image of the Taj on the water and the sun lowering in the sky. It was cloudy though and we didnt manage to see the 'pinks and reds' on the stone that Lonely Planet raves on about. The next day, Katherine woke up very ill (perhaps she had inadvertantly touched the black water?!) so we move to an AC room and holed up for the day. I left only briefly to buy a marble chess set for the pricely sum of 2pounds as well as to have lunch on the balcony in the midday sun - I must have sweated off more than I drank - its at least 40-45C now. The next day we got the train to Delhi.