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We arrived in Trujillo in the afternoon and were immediately happier to be in a bigger town than Chiclayo. We found ourselves a really nice hostel which had an impressive court yard area. Our hostel also had a tour agency attached so we decided, rather than risk having to interpret Spanish again, to book an English speaking tour for the next day. The night we arrived also happened to be Peru Vs Argentina in a World cup qualifier. We lucked upon a restaurant in time to see Peru take the lead with only minutes left, unfortunately for the Peruvians we also saw Argentina equalise in injury time. Whilst it would have been nice to witness a historic victory it wasn't to be. After the game we went out to a Lonely Planet recommended restaurant to have some dinner. After a satisfying dinner we went back to bed ready to explore the pyramids the next day. Our tour began in the mid morning and we were first taken to the site of Las Huacas del Sol y de la Luna. These are two pyramids, one representing the Sun and the other the Moon. The larger Sun temple is still being excavated and so was off limits to tourists, it was however rather impressive from the outside as it is the largest pre-Columbian structure. We were able to walk around the smaller Moon pyramid with our guide who gave us lots of very interesting information about its construction and how it was used. Most interestingly for me was the construction of each new level for each new ruler. The previous ruler would be entombed in the level below. Each new level was also bigger than the previous and considering they were building upwards this would have lead to an upside down pyramid. To rectify this as each new level was built they had to increase the size of all the levels below before being able to build the new level.After the two pyramids we were taken to La Huaca Esmeralda which was a much smaller site but had some amazingly restored walls showing the original patterns. It also gave us a great view over Trujillo and our guide was able to explain the building process as the ancient city developed. After this short stop we were taken to Chan Chan which was built around AD 1300. The site was, at the height of the Chimu Empire, the largest pre-Colombian city in the Americas and the largest adobe city in the world. At its largest Chan Chan contained over 10,000 structures but many of these were destroyed, not during the Inca conquering, but by the Spanish looters many years later. The last stop on the tour was at the chilly beach front so Sue and I took shelter in a little cafe for half an hour where bizarrely we bumped in to Glen and Steve once more. In the evening we went to a little restaurant where I ordered of the vegetarian unfriendly menu and Sue had to try and ask if a vegetarian option could be made for her. The staff were extremely accommodating and we enjoyed a lovely meal before heading back to the hostel to prepare to move on the next day. From Trujillo we took an all day bus up to Lima where we planned to stop for a night before heading to Nazca the next day. We didn't see any of the sights in Lima as we arrived late in the evening and left early the next morning. We had time to wander around the neighbourhood of our hostel, Barranco, which was very pleasant but that is as much as we saw of the city.
John
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