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Day 133 to 138 - 12th to 17th March- Tuscany Region
Point of departure: Rome
Point of arrival : Marciano della Chiana, Tuscany
Accommodation: Cottage at La Colonica,- www.holiday-rentals.co.uk property number 58176 or email [email protected]
Km travelled this week : 944 km Cum: 25 380km(gravel 0km cum 4 649km)
Countries so far: 12/16
Where to next? Florence
No of photos: 172 (cum 6 276)
Today was the day for the Beast to go to the Colosseum… another iconic photo opportunity for the trip.
Since we started planning the trip we had always envisaged certain photos, including, Cape Town's Table Mountain, Cairo's Giza Pyramids, Rome's Colosseum… and the rest wait until later.
The lengths we go to for a photograph! We decided to head out into the Rome traffic pretty early (07h00) to miss as much of the rush hour as possible and following the bus route we had used for the last couple of days found our way in pretty easily and quickly. After a couple of illegal uses of "bus lanes" and no doubt illegal U turns (if we got stopped… no speeka Italian, tourists!) we found the perfect spot, with the sun (yes SUN, BUT 4 degrees!) rising behind us and illuminating the Colosseum in a "warm" morning glow. The Beast seemed a bit overwhelmed by the occasion, not a murmur, not a roar! We even took out the tripod and set it all up with the timer so as to include ourselves in the pictures. By 08h00 we were back at the apartment (we are pro's at getting in and out of Rome now) and mission accomplished.
Driving along the A1 to Marciano della Chiana (central Tuscany region) the hills and valleys still had quite a lot of visible snow, obviously a source of the chilly weather in Rome.
Once we left the freeway, we wound our way through the pretty Tuscan countryside and little villages reaching our destination at lunch time. It really is beautiful, peaceful, the air crisp and fresh, olive tree orchard in the grounds of La Colonica (where we are staying) and views of snowy hills in the distance. If there was any stress left, we are sure we would feel it roll away now. Could easily be a scene from the film, "Under a Tuscan Sun" (without the snow).
The cottage, a two bedroom (en suite) with a log burning fireplace in the lounge, cucina (kitchen), laundry area, dining room and secure parking right outside for the Beast….simply MAGNIFICO! Certainly a place to stay if you would like to visit the Tuscany region. Highly recommended.
Day 134 - the sun actually came out today and stayed out, although the morning started quite misty and cold (4 degrees), (see the photograph of the Beast parked outside the cottage).
Any of you recall the opening scene of the latest James Bond movie "Quantum of Solace"? Let us remind you - the horse racing and the flag-throwing - that was filmed in Siena (the Sienese Palio) and that is where we headed off today.
Siena is a medieval city full of steep alleys and medieval buildings frozen in time all centred round the Piazza del Campo.During 1260 and 1348 the wealthy Sienese contributed to the construction of the civic buildings specifically around the Piazza. However, as a result of the Plague (Black Death) in 1348 over a third of the population was killed and the city declined and no further development took place. (Source DK guide book)
The Piazza del Campo has an elaborate fountain (with images of Adam and Eve and the Madonna and Child) - Fonte Gaia.Since the 11th century, a 25km aqua duct brings water from the Siena hills to supply the fountain and thus the city.
On 2 July and 16 August every year Tuscany's most famous racing event, the Palio, takes places here. This is a bareback horse race, lasting 90 seconds at the most with 17 horses and riders depicting the 17 contrade (districts). What is the prize you ask - the winner (the first horse with rider or not to cross) receives a palio (banner) and bragging rights for the next twelve months. Before the race takes place, there is a procession and pageantry where the talented Sienese display their flag-throwing skills.
Thinking of the James Bond movie, the Piazza is not that big, and having 17 horses screaming round the perimeter plus thousands of people in the centre, must be quite something to behold.
Although the timing was not right for the Palio we did witness the Saturday market selling local arts and crafts as well as organic vegetables and fruit, cheese, cold meats, wine etc. One thing is certain, the Italians certainly enjoy good food.
Following Italian tradition, we decided to enjoy good food and had lunch on the Piazza overlooking the comings and goings of the Sienese and a couple of tourists.
Siena is also renowned for its full Gothic Duomo (Catherdral) ( 1136 - 1382). It really is quite spectacular both externally and internally. The completion of the façade spanned nearly a 100 years (we don't think they were working on it full time!) and the interior is quite unique with its exquisite inlaid marble floor with various designs, its black and white marble pillars, the Dome and statues and art pieces on the walls. Even the pulpit deserves a special mention with intricate carvings depicting The Life of Christ dating back to the late 13th century.
Then back to the cottage as the combination of all the sightseeing and leisurely lunch (or was it the wine) is quite exhausting.
Day 135 (14th March) Happy birthday grandson Joshua. On our agenda today, explore a couple of Tuscany's medieval towns/villages strategically built on hilltops. First stop, Montepulciano (at 605m above sea level, one of the highest Tuscany towns) and enclosed by walls and fortifications dating back to 1511. After a photo opportunity with us standing in the snow, we walked up the narrow cobbled stone alleys, lined with quaint shops and wine tasting, late winter snow still evident, church bells ringing and made our way up to the Piazza and Duomo.It was a bit early for us for the wine tasting and John still had lots of driving to do so we passed on that. A very picturesque and memorable little town which still, after all these centuries, has retained its medieval charm.
Pienza - the town as its now known dates back to 1548 when Pope Pius II renamed it in his honour (previously called Corsignano). The town was buzzing with a local fund raising event in the Piazza del Pio II.We walked behind the Duomo to admire the view of the Val d'Orcia and Monte Amiata (dormant volcano) across the valley. Found a very quaint Trattoria for lunch, fire going in the crate, where we sampled the local pasta "Picci" (it's similar to spaghetti but much thicker and very tasty).
Being a wine producing town, Montalcino was crammed with shops where you could buy and sample various wines. The Beast drove up the narrow steep streets without a problem and got parked on a pile of snow - John reverted back to his childhood days, every time he saw snow on the side of the road, he drove the Beast through it.We visited the 16th century Fortezza with awe inspiring views of the surrounding countryside. There is a flag inside the fortezza which commemorates the Sienese battle in which Florence conquered Siena back in 1555.During this battle, the locals gave refuge to Sienese rebels and ever since then, Siena in gratitude, has honoured the citizens of Montalcino by allowing them to take the lead in the annual Palio parade in Siena. (source DK guide)
Day 136 (15th March) Happy Birthday Marina. Marina's wish today was to visit the Chianti wine region of Tuscany and our first stop was the Barone Ricasoli wine estate. Perched on top of the hill with magnificent views of the countryside and town, we were the first visitors of the new season. The Brolio castle bas been in the same family for 32 generations (since 1142) and being "occupied" entry into the castle was not possible. However, we did enjoy a walk through the gardens, the family chapel and around the perimeter, with magnificent views as advertised. We then visited the wine tasting showroom and enjoyed a tasting of, and purchased, a couple of bottles of the local fare.
Then we followed the wine route through the villages and wine estates ofMeleto, Gaiole in Chianti, Radda in Chianti and Castellina in Chianti… by now you have guessed we are in the Chianti region, but our final destination for the day being San Gimignano. Here we relied on the book "1000 Places to See Before you Die" for our lunch destination, and we were not disappointed. The restaurant is called "Bel Soggiorno", well known in local circles for its food and its magnificent view out across the valley "Val d'Elsa" and vineyards. It was absolutely fantastic… the food, a bottle of local wine and the view, and coincidentally the only other patrons being four South African/ex South Africans from Johannesburg - the Dodo brothers (Ralph and Neville) and son Daniel, and Michael Aronovsky (now living in London). A really memorable lunch which we then walked off a bit, exploring the alleys, Piazza and shops. The town is renowned for its 14 windowless medieval towers, the only reminiscence of what was once a cluster of about 70 towers, dating back to 12th and 13th centuries. Then a careful drive home to our cottage in Marciano della Chiana.
Day 137 (16th March) today was a resting and shopping day. Being so close to Florence there are number of outlet stores in the vicinity, including those for Prada, Gucci, Fendi, Armani and Dolce & Gabbana. We did a little bit of damage but not too much… we had to have a souvenir from Tuscany.
It was fairly early home, relaxation and a lovely home cooked meal… we were both craving vegetables!
Day 138 (17th March) - we were supposed to travel through to Florence today for two nights but decided to rather spend the two nights here at La Colonica (apartment in Florence owned by the same owner so no problem with last minute change) and rather go into Florence by train, especially when we discovered that the parking garage in Florence wanted 40 euros per night for the Beast. We worked out that since our arrival in Tuscany we have driven 796km in the past five days and so decided to take a day off today… no driving.
John and the Beast had some "quiet" moments together and a bit of male bonding… John checked and cleaned the rear shocks, checked and lubricated the winch cable, checked and pumped the tyres, sorted out the latch on the back spare wheel holder (problem started in Namibia) and re-organised the inside of the car and did a bit of cleaning inside and out.
Marina caught up on laundry, did some administration work, updated the blog, checked emails and assisted with the packing of the Beast.
Dinner, a log fire and glass of Italian vino and a dvd… the plan for tonight.
Domani Florence!
- comments
Cesare Sesto Marina and John It was a pleasure having you stay at our cottage, the Lodge at La Colonica in Marciano della Chiana. Thank you for your wonderful comments in our Visitors Book. We are very proud that this little place is part of your wonderful journey. We are delighted that you saw so much of Tuscany from here. It is good that the weather changed for the better for your stay! We hope to see you back here again sometime and we will follow the blog with interest. In the meantime, we are starting a special 10% discount called the Cape to Cairo & Beyond for your friends or those who mention your blog - this is to mark your stay. Arrivederci. Cesare (and the dogs)