Our Inca Trail didn`t get off to the perfect start. It was supposed to be an hours drive from Ollantaytambo to KM 82, the start point for the trail. About 40 minutes into this relatively pleasant journey, our driver pulled up suddenly. Our tyre had blown out about 5 minutes prior, but he only just realised. Said tyre utterly shredded, continuing on was an impossibility. Thankfully another GAP van with people about to begin the Inca trail passed us and stopped to pick us up. How kind of them!

Another twenty minutes in the van and we cut across the famous railway line that runs along the banks of the Urubamba all the way to Aguas Calientes at the foot of Machu Pichu. We were dropped off with our kit about five minutes from the beginning of the trail to get set. Our guide, Carlos, introduced us to our porters, all 9 of them and our Chef. If you think that 9 porters is excessive, bear in mind that there were four of us! As the only two people on our trip to have booked far enough in advance (the trail is usually booked up to 6 months in advance), we were joined by two girls from another group. Such a small group was truly a blessing as it enabled us to walk the trail at a great place (but more on that later). So we left our bags with some of our porters, whilst other porters caried tents, food and various other unnecessary necessities.

We walked a few minutes to the first checkpoint at Piskakucho, recieved the first of 5 passport stamps, crossed a rickety wooden bridge over the urubamba, and stood on the bank of the river contemplating the next four days. When booking to come to South America, the Inca Trail was one of the top things on my list, and it was an amazing feeling to be standing at the start of the trail after so much planning. Carlos told us that we should walk five minutes, to clear the noise of the river, which was cascading down past rapids and bolders just below. We climbed the first of the multitude of stairs that would await us and stopped at a quiet spot overlooking the river cutting through steep valley sides, with snow fringed mountains rising in the distance.

The trail would follow roughly like so; Starting from one of two points km 82, on the Urubamba River, the first day would be relatively easy, covering no more than 13 relatively flat km in just a few hours. We would be passing by the Inca ruins of Llaqtapata, a well preserved site used for crop production. We would camp at a site called Wayllabamba.

Day two was the one that everyone had told us to watch out for. It would start very early and include the notorious ascent to Warmiwañusca or Dead Woman's Pass, which, at 4,215 m above sea level, is the highest point on the trail. From here we would descend 600m to a campsite called Pacaymayu. Most groups would spend the night here, however given that we were so few, and were young, fit and able, we would have the option to continue further on day two, thus turning a difficult day into a very challenging one. We would continue up a second pass (just under 4,000m) called Runkuraqay, passing the site of Sayaqmarka, perched atop a sheer cliff. After Sayaqmarka the trail begins to descend through thick cloud forest and jungle. We would camp at a site called Chakiqocha.

The third day includes our final pass called Phuyupatmarka at just over 3500m. From here it would be all downhill to Machu Pichu. We would descend past Winay Wayna, an impressive and well-preserved Inca site (and whilst other groups would camp here), we would continue all the way to Machu Pichu, and then walk down into Aguas Calientes to stay the night before catching the first bus up to the sight on the morning of day 4.

And so it began....The first day as expect was extermely manageable, and to sound like a spoilt grumpy old man of a traveller, far too commercial for my liking. It was such an easy walk that truly didn`t necessitate beverage and chocolate vendors every 15 minutes or so. The vast number of unfit American tourists was probably their target market. That said, it was still very scenic at times. Following along the banks of the river. Our first Inca site was a real breathe of fresh air. Llactapata, fortified and encircled by the Urubamba, with exquisite examples of Inca terraces, exemplified why the trail is one of the worlds most popular. From this site we continued a little further stopping for lunch in a forest by the banks of the river. This the first we really got to see of the extent that the porters and the chefs would go to. On arrival at the lunch site, we were clapped in by the whole team of porters (slightly condescending considering it was nothing more than an uphill amble, but kind of them). They then brought us a bowl of warm water to wash our hands and face whilst one stood by with a hand towel. Drinks were provided by the water, and then we sat down in our oversized tent, complete with table chairs and condoments box. Lunch consisted of soup followed by trout and rice, washed down with Coca Tea. Having already tried some guinea pig on route before lunch (it tastes quite nice, a bit like chewey chicken, though the fact that they bring it to you whole is a little offputting) I wasn't overly hungry. We then continued our walk leaving them to pack up the tents and cooking equipment. It was fantastic, but also slightly uneasy having 10 people effectively wait on you hand and foot.

Another couple hours of somewhat unremarkable, semi forested walking brought us to our campsite. The porters work at such speed, running with 20kgs on their backs from site to site, that they had already set up our tents when we arrived. Met with the obligatory clap and drink we moved into our already erected tents. After an hour relaxing, we joined in with some locals, our tour guide and some of the porters in a football match at a pitch a few minutes from the campsite. Needless to say, our brand of sexy english football has now become somthing of an Inca trail legend. News has probably already filtered home, but I will summarise, 3 teams including ours, first to score stays on! Our team consisting of carlos, zack, myself, our cook and a porter! Undefeated for the full hour! We played well into the sunset until we could see the ball no longer before retuning to our campsite. On our return, the main tent had been lit up with a gas lamp, it was tea time. We were met with our warm cup of coca tea, and the table contained, popcorn, toast, jam and other snacks. Now come on, that is just ridiculous! tastey and enjoyable but plain ridiculous. After tea, we relaxed in our tent for an hour until being awoken for dinner. Again warm water was brought so as we could freshen up first. Dinner was to be three courses, soup, meat, and a bannana desert. I was beginning to feel that this 10 porter business was a little excessive. After dinner, we had a formal introduction with the porters before getting an early night in preperation for what was widely regarded as the hardest day of the trail.

We were awoken abruptly the next morning by the sound of someone trying to enter our tent. Still being pitch black, I flicked on my torch. and opened the inner section of the tent. It was our waiter, standing with hot coca tea and honey! I have heard of breakfast in bed, but breakfast in a tent! Half an hour later we emerged from our tent, to be met by yet another porter with hot water to wash, and cold water for our teeth. This service went on for the whole trail. I won't dwell on it, as it will only get repetetitive, but it was just crazy.

We set off around 6 am on a thousand metre climb that would take a good few hours. We would be climbing up and over dead womans pass from our campsite, thus conquering the highest point of the trail. As we climbed higher, the sun rose behind the mountains, casting an eery twighlight shadow, on the trail. The lower part of the trail was climbing through thick forest. As the Incas hadn't invented or utilised the wheel, their trails were desgined for people to walk. Therefore, the trail is just a huge collection of stone steps. At various points on our ascent into the clouds, the trail ran parallell to a shallow but fast flowing stream. After a few hours the path became somewhat steeper and we broke through the cloud line. We stopped for a minute to take in the views of the valley below, and to watch the clouds smother the mountain tops before moving on, and leaving them visible again. The last few hundred metres of the climb was painful. At high altitude, nearing 4000 metres, oxygen was becoming more and more scarce and this wasn't aided by the increasing steepness of the steps. Even the porters were taking it slowly up this part of the track, zig zagging their way up even the narrowest parts of the trail. As the pass came into sight through some cloud, it rejuvinated me briefly allowing me to push to the top. On reaching the top, I slung my bag to the ground, and leaning on a large boulder spent a few minutes panting desperately as I attempted to recaptured my breath. It was a few minutes until I looked up and then back down the trail realising my accomplisments. The cloud had cleared compeltely and it was possible to see the snaking path that we had taken all the way from our campsite. The view into this V shaped valley was stunning, and made all the more perfect given the strenuous efforts we had put into climbing it. We stayed at the top for about half an hour taking photos, and refuelling on chocolate bars. Clouds blew in and over, sometimes enveloping us for seconds, othertimes, somtering us for minutes. It was a fantastic feeling to be so high above sea level! Downhill should be the easy part. But the steepness of the steps in places meant it was often necessary to descend with the use of your hands and the walking poles I rented came in handy. About an hour and a half of solid downhill was playing havoc on the knees, but this was softened by the stunning views of two of the largest mountains coming in and out of view with the passing of the clouds. We finally arrived for lunch at Pacaymayo. After all the pomp and decadence of a typical lunch, we were allowed to rest for about a half an hour. Other groups would be camping here, but we would continue, up another pass, that seemed to climb vertically into the cloud forest (it was visible from the campsite). Carlos ensured us it would be easier than the last (that wasn't saying much though). Not conent with us just basking in the sun, the porters decided that they should blow up sleeping mats so we could truly relax for half an hour.

We awoke and continued up more stairs. The pass wasn't as steep, and having descended 600mtrs in the hour and a half after dead womans pass, oxygen wasn't so much a problem. But we were very tired, and nearing the top, the rejuvinating effect of lunch and rest was beginning to wear thin. Again cloud obscured most of the views but as we reached the last ten minutes this cleared again. With the last few steps, a mountain plateu was visible directly below which contained to small lagoons. Raching the top at around 3,900m, was again a fantastic feeling. The climb had been shorter and more manageable, but again the views were equally senstaional, looking back down into the valley where we had just climbed up from. From here, it would pretty much be all downhill, with the exception of a few flat sections and one more brief climb. It was mid afternoon and we still had a couple of hours to go until we would reach our campsite at Chaqikocha. We walked downhill passing the site of Sayaqmarka, with sterotypical terraces clinging to a precipice, and buildings perched high up overlooking the valley below into which we would be passing. It was really quite cold and windy, and the clouds were moving at some pace, first completely obscuring the site and then leaving it completely clear. We continued further, passing some smaller sites, before finally arriving, somewhat exhausted at Chaqikocha. The campsite was stunning, perched on a plateu, with the dead womans far in the distance above us. Across the otherside of the valley, a collection of snowcapped peaks, towered above pristine rainforest below. We ate our dinner, saw some friends who were camping at the same site and went to bed early, absolutely exhausted from the days endeavours, yet embued with a sense of acheivement and enthusiasm for what lay ahead. Again, we awoke early, the light just creeping through the gaps in the peaks above, creating beams of light that shot in from all angles, and illuminated centre parts of the valley and campsite. Our walk began with a brief uphill along a narrow track with a stunning vertical drop off into the rainforest far below. Whilst the son wasn't fully up, it was still cold, but as it came into full view we shedded layers. The weather was now becoming sub tropical, and the vegetation changed dramatically, becoming increasingly lush. After an hour, we reached a joining point between a couple of valleys. The Urubamba was also now back in sight, and it was possible to make out its course in the distance. We climbed some rocks and took in the stunning vista with valleys on our left and right for some time before moving on. After another few hours of walking and some more minor Inca sites, we arrived at our lunch camp, Winaywayna. We were the only group to attempt pushing on further from here, as the other groups took their lunch and spent the rest of their day there. Before continuing along the trail, we visited the Inca sight of Winaywayna after lunch. For some people, this is a sight more impressive with Machu Pichu. It is hidden from most of the rest of the valley behind two large mountains. It possesses some of the steepest Inca terrraces around, which drop almost vertically into the river valley below. There is a small but brilliantly preserved collection of buildings. All of this, with the back drop of one of the most stunning parts of the Urubamba valley. The river in its mid course, cuts through a fantastic steep sided V shaped valley bending into the distance. With so few tourists compared to Machu Pichu, it was a fantastic place. We spent half an hour relaxing and drinking in the sun on one of the terraces overlooking the valley, before dragging ourselves away for some more steps. A few hours further and we were in touching distance of Machu Pichu. We had one extremely steep climb with steps akin to a ladder (it was now abundantly clear that the Incas had extremely small feet as the steps were so bloody narrow) up to a sight called sungate. Sungate is one of a few entrances to the Machu Picchu archaelogical sight. From here Machu Picchu is visible, but still a 40 minute downhill walk. On reaching the gate, we stopped for some celebratory photos, and to congratulate each other on completing the trek a day quicker than scheduled (didn't we do well!!!). The view is certainly panoramic, with the geological formations that make Machu Picchu what it is dominating the scenery. The archaeological site itself was still slightly distant to make out and it would only become more visible as we descended. We took in the view for a while. The scraggy limestone pinnacles that jut up out of the river valley. The path the the Urubamba has carved around the peaks that dominate Machu Pichu is equally spectacular. About half an hour later, we reached our first postcard view of Machu Pichu. Rays of light falling sporadically, illuminmating different aspects of the sight, and giving it a mysterious glow. As the clouds jostled for position in the sky, the light would flicker, the spotlights would move as if controlled by a technichian in a west end play. We stayed taking in the views as long as we could. We wouldn't actually enter the sanctuary until the next day as our ticket, being a day early wasn't yet valid. As the sun began to slink behind the mountians we tore ourselves away. An uneventful steep hour long descent from the site to the town directly below was our last obstacle. It was hard walking away from such a stunning place, but the knowledge that we would return the next day anaethetised it. On reaching the bottom of the limestone peak that supsends Machu Picchu in the clouds, we continued along a road, into the town of Aguas Calientes. With no accomodation booked, we would be staying in a restaurant of a friend of our guide. We didn't really mind, we were too exhausted. We spent our time before dinner, relaxing in the hot baths that give Aguas Calientes their name, before returning to the restaurant for our farewell dinner. Whilst in the baths we coincidentally met up with the rest of our group who had been doing a different hike that was scheduled to finish a day earlier than we were. They were shocked and of course delighted to see us, and we regaled them with tales of our journey. Dinner was served in typical fashion, and after it was done, we bid farewell to our porters, who would be taking a very early train home. We bought them some beer, had a farewell drink with them and tipped them generously. We slept soundly in a real bed dreaming of what tomorrow would bring. (The 4am wake up didn't feature in the dream)!