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Having left Punta Arenas, we headed North toward Punta Natales. It was Easter Sunday so the town was effectively closed for business. It is really just a thoroughfare for people attempting to get to Torres Del Paine. From here you can book and organise everything you need. We eventually found somewhere open for lunch and after a few hours we were back on the bus. The leg of the drive between Natales and Torres del Paine became progressively more spectacular as we wound our way into the park. Once in the park it was still a two hour drive to our campsite. It is probably one of the most beuatiful roads in the world, as steep twisting hills give way to superb panoramas over the lakes and peaks in the distance. With every strech of road that we covered, we seemed to come across yet more fascinating views. The grandeur, scale and setting of the place is beyond compare.
The national park is almost otherworldly and like absolutely nothing I have seen before. The contrast of formations, vegetation and colours is truly indescribable. Our campsite was beside a lake called lago Pehoe. The lake lies at the base of a stunning mountain range, and on our first night we were treated to the most impressive sunset I have ever seen. After watching the sun set over the mountains, the waters of the lake returned from their transitory orange and red, to a dark blue and then lit up again as the moon and stars illuminated them. We set up our tents and prepared our gear for the next 3 days.
We had opted to take a 3 day hike known as the 'W' Walk. The distances involved would be over 60km. Morning errupted in a blur of reds and purples as if the sky was a giant painters pallet. The journey to the start of the walk was a spectacular hours drive. If the sunrise was anything the go by, the walk would be truly unforgettable. The road followed the shoreline of the lake and passed some stunning waterfalls.
We arrived and left some of our gear at the ´refugio´ (shelter/dorm accomodation on the trail). The first days walk (The Towers Walk) would be about 9 hours of walking. The first 2 and half hours is of very steep ascent and was probably the hardest part of the day. The trail begins in a relatively flat valley. After crossing a couple of somewhat ricketty bridges, we began the trudge upward. The further you climb the more you are rewarded with stunning views. Further mountain ranges and various lakes became visible as we reached the top of the first section. After stopping here briefly for some drinks and snacks we continue along the next section. This part of the hike rose more gradually up a river valley through dense forest. As this came to an end we prepared ourselves for the final asscent. The path dissolved away into a field of boulders. This hour long scrammble was all that stood inbetween us and the top. The rocks became larger and the climb more vertical. The last 15 minutes were not so much a hike but a rock climb. As we reached the summit the 3 granite peaks for which the park is famous for began to come into view. By the time we reached the top, the full scale of the sight had been revealed. The 3 massive peaks towering above a turqoise glacial lake. The spectacle was awe inspiring and we stood in silence staring and the rugged beauty of the place. We spent almost an hour at the top taking photos and sucking in the view.
We then climbed back down the field of rocks and continued for another hour further along the river valley. We were the only two people who decided to take that walk (nicknamed the valley of silence). Whilst the views weren´t really that special as we were walking through forest, the peace and tranquility of the place was brilliant. We passed alnong the banks of the river until we could go no furhter. The sun was beginning to set and we had a four hour climb down. Watching the sun set over the park on day one was a fantastic end to a hard days climb. We returned exhausted, but invigorated by the days experiences and sights and looking forward to the next leg.
Pain and aching legs were the theme of day 2. We hadn´t really comprehended how much distance we had covered going up and back down the mountain (the campsite was at the base), but by day 2 we were left in no doubt. The beautiful sunshine of day 1 had been replaced with some very light rain, which created a number of stunning rainbows as we set off. Todays walking was only going to be about 4 hours and so we took it easy and soaked in the views. It was a much easier hike, though steep in sections it passed along the shoreline of a number of stunning lakes. The water was so clear and tranquil that it gave a perfect reflection of the surrounding peaks. After lunch at the refugio, Zak and I decided that the next day we would set out at 4am and try and do a massive extra section that would have otherwise been impossible. Considering that it would be dark, I decided that I should go and check out the route in the light to see if there were any hazards. It was only a couple of hours walk on the map to the base of the next climb. I set off and before I realised I had completed the walk. Having to be back in an hour for dinner I had no choice but to run the back to our refugio (a decision I would later regret).
That night in the refugio, the walls creaked and the building shook as a terriffic wind ripped through the valley. As our alarm went off at 4am, the rain could be heard pelting against the window. Zak shouted down from the bunk above, "I don´t think this is a very good idea", so we went back to bed. We awoke with sunrise and continued the walk. We wouldn´t have time to do the hike up the middle section of the mountain and so we aimed to complete a walk to the Glacier Grey. Leaving the refugio at 7am we made ourway along yet more stunning lakes and pasases to the beginning of the Glacier Grey hike. The wind was brutal at times but we arrived at about 12. We had to catch a 6 o´clock ferry back to our campsite on pehoe and so we had just 6hours to complete this 7hour walk. The start was again very steep but after a few hours, the stunning glacier came into sight. Blue chunks of Ice could be seen floating in the lake and a light mist engulfed parts of the glacier. Halfway through the walk my knee began to hurt. I had injured it running back to the refugio the night before and so I had to turn back at the first viewpoint. Zak continued to the base of the glacier. We returned intime for the ferry, and that night had a beautfil dinner on the shores of the lake by campfire. Reminiscing about the fantastic couple of days and gazing into the starry reflection in the lake, I came to the conclusion that Torres del Paine has to be one of the most special and unique places on the face of planet Earth.
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