As we neared Santiago, the sun began to sink behind the Andes, whom as we approached the city, seem to rise above us gradually as if modestly trying to hide their grandeur. Whilst picturesquely seated in a hole in the middle of the Andes range, is one of Santiago´s major draws, it is also its curse. The pollution produced from the city is unable to escape above the mountains and so it hangs, creating a haze obscuring and veiling the giants that tower above. The only time one can find a clear view of the mountains, is in rain or high winds, and we were treated to neither specatacle, and thus had to make do with the snow capped outline.

We arrived during rush hour and by the time we made it into the city the sun had completely set. Our first impression of Santiago, as we entered along a crowded motorway, was of a busy city, that could have been anywhere in Europe. We arrived out our hotel, situated brilliantly, next to the central Plaza de Armas, and prepared for our final group meal! Walking from the hotel to the restaurant, the streets seemed to have an air of unease about them, with people loittering on corners and a heavy police presence. It is strange, because from what I had read, the city wasn´t really supposed to be like that. We finished dinner and returned to the hotel.

We spent the following day sightseeing (though Santiago can´t boast the myriad of sights of other cities like Buenos Aires, there is enough to keep one interested and active for a day or two. We walked around the main square, dominated by the cathedral, and towards the mercado central. The mercado central is the seafood and fish market. Housed in a beautiful grand building, designed by a british architect whose name escapes me, it is packed with stalls selling seafood of all variety. Some of the more exotic dishes for sale, were Giant Squid steaks, court off the coast of Valparaisso, Sea urchins, King Crab and Chilean Sea Bass. As it was only 11 o´clock (too early even for mee to be tempted by the fruits of the ocean), we continued to the Cerro San Christobal. A large hill pretrudig from the centre of the city reached by a furnicular. At the top is a large statue of the Mother Mary (smaller than the Brazilian Christ) but still impressive. The viewing platform at the top commands an impressive panorama of the city, however it is slightly spoiled and blurred by the hanging polution. The view of the Andes isn´t really much clearer from the top either. We then took a cable car across to another hill. The cable car stops at three seperate stations where one can get off. Passing over the zoo, and offering a view of downtown, and a number of expensive properties, it was a very enjoyable ride. We returned to the Mercado Central for lunch, at a restaurant (a local favourite, if ever you are in Santiago, it is highly reccomended) called Donde Augosto. We opted for a variety of small different dishes. A culinary journey along the coast of Chile. The Sea Bass and the ****** were particuarly tastey! We returned to the hotel and went out for dinner in the bohemian district of Bellavista.

Our overland adventure had come to an end, and with it too had gone the first month of our trip. The undoubted highlights for me (of which there were many) were Buenos Aires, hiking in Tierra del Fuego, Torres Del Paine and Perito Moreno. The free camping was an experience, perhaps not one that I intend to repeat on a regular basis, but an experience nonetheless. I look forward to the next leg with eager anticipation