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A few hours drive along a winding and scenic coastal road brought us to a small port where we boarded a ferry that would take us to Ilha grande. A tropical island with a plethora of sandy beaches, as well as some excellent surfing. The ferry took about half an hour and was a worthwhile trip in itself giving stunning views of the coast, mountains and rainforests. We docked at the small dockand checked into our Pöusada. The town (or rather sea front promenade) is tiny, but beautifully maintained and has a wonderfull feel. The seafront is lined with small shops and a handfull of restaurants. It is the only really substantial town on the island. Ilha Grande is completely pedestrianised and so water taxis are really your only option for further travel. We had a fair proportion of the afternoon remaining and so decided to take a trip to Lopes Mendes (Acclaimed as one of the best beaches in Brazil). The boat can only take you so far, and from that point it is a 25 minute walk through sub-tropical atlantic rainforest (I was listening to the guide). Stepping out of a humid jungle onto an immense and uncrowded stretch of white sand is a great feeling. The beach strethces quite a way until you reach the water, and it curves round to form a huge wineglass flanked on both sides by towering rocks leading into virgin rainforest. The waters off the beach are too rough for boats and so it is fairly difficult to reach adding to the seclusion. The currents in the water are dangerously strong and it is illadvised to head out furthert than you can stand as the waves really to pound the beach. There were a number of brave (or stupid) surfers, but we opted for the far more extreme sport of wave jumping. After about 20 minutes of this the current had taken us almost 500metres from where we started. After this we went for a walk along the beach and scaled the rocks on the far side. This gave stunning views back across the beach as well as providing a vantage point to the power of the Atlantic. Some of the largest waves I have ever seen crashed with an almighty force against the rocks further down the coast and provided quite a spectacle.That night we had an amazing meal (a mixed plate of fresh local fish and other specialties! If you must know PK) on the beach near our pousada.
The next day we boarded another schooner to have a tour of some of the smaller islands and some more deserted swimming spots. Unfortuanately there had been a minor earthquake a few days earlier and so the crystal clear waters were murky and not so appealing. Despite this we had an enjoyable beach barbeque, and induldged in some extreme beach football and tennis before returning under the setting sun. The boat trip also included a lot of free Caiprinha, but the thought of drinking Cachaca before midday didn´t really seem all that appealling, and so noone really took advantage until after lunch. We returned to the main island early in the evening and after a pizza went to the islands only real bar. Overlooking the pier it was a great setting. After a while there we decided to fill our stomachs with something else and found the most amazing creperie. We then returned to the bar. Buoyed by rumours of a nightclub (apparently we genuinely thought that an island with a population smaller than Stanmore would have a hectic night scene) we made our way to the club. On arrival, they closed. Not sure what that was all about, but it was probaly for the best as we had an early ferry to Paraty the next morning...
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