Havana - the capital of Cuba and the zeitgeist of any trip here. The city is wonderful, with lots of beautiful old buildings of various heritage, plenty of parks and plazas in which to do plenty of sitting and restaurants serving good food.

We arrived on Thursday evening and went straight to a Casa that had been recommended to us. It's right on the Malecon (the road running along the seafront) and looks very much like a derelict building. Inside, however, it's like a palace with high ceilings, original decor and furniture and a wonderful view of the ocean.

We have spent a day in Havana Vieja - the historic old town - where many of the buildings and plazas have been refurbished and broght back to their former glory. Although the architecture was stunning the place was absolutely packed with tourists, and therefore touts and beggars. We did visit the Museo de la Ciudad (City Museum) which had some interesting exhibits but where we were constantly pestered by attendants wanting to show us exhibits for a tip.

Another day we spent in Central Havana, looking around some of the sights, including the Capitolio - another former presidential palace built in the same design as the Capitol Building in Washington. We visited the Museo de La Reveloution where we saw a history of the revolution with lots of pictures and exhibits (spoon used by revolutionary, radio used by revolutionary, blood-spattered coat worn by revolutionary etc). It was a fascinating insight, not only into the events leading up to the revolution but the viewpoint of the Cuban government. The former government were consistently described as tyrants and the revolutionaries as heroes. Oh, and the US are responsible for every misfortune to have fallen on Cuba since.

We've also spent another day at the beach (it had to be done) and seen the Plaza de la Revolution - the current seat of government.

We have both loved Havana immensely. And not only for it's beautifully restored architecture. Turn a corner from one of these immaculate plazas and you are presented with everyday Cuban life. There's a guy fixing up an old chair he's found, someone selling candy floss for a couple of pesos and a group of lads fixing up a car. A bunch of kids are playing baseball whilst the women are hanging around in doorways chatting. Everyone has a big smile and a Hola! for you and all seem to make the most of what they have - even if that is a road full of delapidated buildings, piles of rubbish and the constant smell of rubbish. THIS is the Cuba we will keep fond memories of.