Tues 2nd May

Population over 9 million.

On our train ride was a Mother and child & Dad, who had one of our seats.. he suggested Frank has his seat until Frank pointed out there were two of us. A quick swap ensued. After an hour or so they got off and a different mother and child came on (with friend who was seated seperately). Smiles and waves at her little girl a few sentenances were exchanged and she gave us an orange, a rather juciy and sweet one, then they disappeared up to next carriage to her friend (a seat freed up), but she left bags in her seat for a long while.

Both children loved Pepper Pig. They were watching videos on the parents' phones. It is a big theme everywhere, supermarkets etc. it became the theme tune to this journey.

Arrived in Qingdao, at 11:30pm, having checked the directions and map before hand I was confident with the hostelworld directions. It was just the lateness and darkness of the hour that unnerved me a little. A 6 minute walk with success. The gate was locked but a phone call had staff come to let us in.

Checked-in, Mr. Wheat (as we nicknamed him) looks very different to other Chinese guys. Long hair, tall broad, with an air of calm and coolness. Both he and his son (well we think) had little english but a good vibe and gave us a quick midnight tour pointing out showers (got a bottle of shampoo and body wash too), toilets, washing machine, hot tap (noodles/tea) then up and down a series of stairs, in and out arches - a true labrynth...to our 12 bed dorm! Three lads were there already and a 4th bed looked occupied too. All spoke english and were awake. Nice lads, who smiled and introduced themselves, one chap said he had studied 'Dubliners' when Frank mentioned Ireland. Matresses were wood - no I dont mean 'felt like wood'.... they were wood! I went to squish it down and bent back a nail. There was a thin matress liner (think, thick J cloth) for softness. A last trek to brush our teeth and use the loo....Suprise nothing but squat toilets! Good lord, now there's something to figure out!