Population 4.7 million

Fri 18th May

Woke up on the train, it was werid seeing buildings go by during your lie in. The hours ticked by, we rode through at least 3 rain storms on our way. In our compartment we had the bottom bunks (yay, more room), two men were on the top bunks, a younger fellow in the middle bunk above Frank and a father and son above mine. There was a family with a little girl in the next compartment. More of China went by our window, lots more trees, grass, rice fields, hills and mountains passed by.

Not much to do and conserving our phone batteries (no plug outlets for use) we watched the other passengers in their routine. At some stage the two children started playing together. Both were around four/five years old. They were playing a version of 'rock, paper, scissors', then 'hide and seek'. During this a man was selling toys that flashed and made noises. His timing was poor though as whilst he paused to tempt the kids, the train shunted forward and he fell backwards making an "eeeee" sound as he disappeared sideways. Frank and I had to hide our faces to smother our giggles. Then we couldn't stop giggling. Another man was rather more tormenting as he let the little boy hold the toy before pulling it away and asking the Dad to buy it - cue tears from the child. My turn - I played silly skits with the kids, pretending to swallow my eye ball and doing silly tricks I'd seen on telly. Quite a cute moment happened when the girl tried (successfully, I might add) to copy me. We kind of had a brief conversation with both parents, but us with no Chinese and they with little English it was a somewhat stunted conversation. Both families got off after Henygyang. Lots of waves goodbye and smiles. It is stange to know we will never see those people ever again.

It was getting dark now and late. On our own we grew a little uneasy about where we were and how far our destination was. 'We should be there by now' and the train wasn't slowing down. I tried to call the hostel to tell them we think we're delayed. Next thing, a train steward said something to us in Chinese but didn't take the time to see if we understood her. Then the lights in the carriage went off for the passengers to sleep again. We must have to move up? So we did.

I tried again to call the hostel and that dreaded tone was back again. "Ni hao....you have call barring..."

I tried a different dial. Same result. Our unease turn to anxiousness as both Frank and I tried in vain to contact the hostel.

Minutes later the train pulled into Guilin, delayed - we got out at 9:45. Phew, here now. I took out the directions as we began to exit the station.

There were very few people there. Only one or two security, three or four people meeting family. And "Taxi? Taxi?" drivers. Our first look onto the city didn't help identify which road we were on. All I needed was the road named Zhongshan (on the signs it says north or south) and I could get us going in the right direction. No such sign could be found. Or any other for that matter. All the while looking we had the taxi vultures follow us squawking for our custom...or rather money. Still no luck with our mobiles. About turn we headed back to the station and a tour opperator still open. The communication was a struggle as she had very little english. All she could manage was "that road is far away" via her phone. Seeing as we were going to go no where fast with that conversation and beginning to wonder how far is "far away" (Chinese people tend not to walk the distances Europeans are happy to) we ventured back out (pushy vultures in tow) - I had spotted a  hotel across the road, maybe they could help? The two on reception were far more helpful than the girl in the tour office. They called the Wada Hostel after we showed them our phones. At last we could tell our hostel we were late and that we think we're in the wrong place. The three of us agreed we would arrive via taxi and our hostel host would asked the girls on the desk to write the address down in Chinese for the driver and how much it would/should cost, ¥40...