Well.. so much has happened in the last few days that I don't know where to start!

On Christmas Eve we did a bit of shopping and general walking around. Had a photo with Father Christmas in the main square and then one with the soldiers outside the Parliament building! We had christmas dinner at a place called Mongo's where we got the Christmas deal - punch, turkey and christmas cookies.. which turned out to be ''champagne'' which was actually apple cider!? Turkey which was reasonably nice... and weird, frozen tiramisu which was gross.. but we had a great time, lots of christmas toasts and we all bought santa hats to wear!

On Christmas day we had to get up ultra early to travel to Puno... left La Paz at 8, travelled to Taquine on Lake Titicaca where we got boats across the lake to another town where we drove to Copacabana for lunch. Then a different bus which took us across the border and to Puno. The bus dropped us off on the Bolivian side where we exited then we walked across the border into Peru!

Puno is right on Lake Titicaca.. not a very attractive city, but there's some nice-ish restaurants. For dinner on Christmas day I had trout from the lake with baked potatoes and mulled wine! very nice. The next day - boxing day - was another early one. We had to be up at 6 as out trip to the Islands started early. We travelled in rickshaws down the hill to the harbour where we boarded our boat with our guide Leo. We passed the Uros Islands on the way but didn't stop at them until on the way back the next day. Our first stop after 3 hours was Tequile Island where we walked up to the top - quite a hike! And then had lunch and delicious munja tea, which they pick from the bush and then just cover with hot water. It's meant to have even better healing properties than coca and also good for altitude, and it tasted a lot better!

We visited the handicrafts markets and were bombarded by little girls selling woven bracelets. Then we walked down the 500 or so steps to the boat and after another hour we arrivd at Amantani Island where we stayed the night on homestay. Our ''mamas'' came down to the harbour to collect us and then take us to their houses. A very hard climb because of the altitude - its about 3800m. About 5000 people live on the Island, and they speak Quechua (and spanish). Tourism is their mains source of income but they also farm potatoes, okra, corn, carrots and a few other things in Inca-style terraces. Ria, Jen and I stayed in one house - much more deluxe than we thought it would be. Very simple, ie. no electricity or running water but we had a proper floor. Our Mama had 4 children, Celestine (19), Christine (17) and Alex (13) and the other brother was in Lima studying. We took them gifts of rice, pasta, sugar, oil from the mainland and some pens and pencils for kids on the Island. Celestine brought us the munja tea when we got there and then after a bit we walked down to the meeting area and watched a soccer match. There were about 2 or 3 other groups visiting as well as us so lots of gringos about!

We then walked up to one of the summits - the Pacha Tapi Summit to see the sunset. Pretty rough going, only 1.5km walk but at the top its 4500m! We went back to our houses for dinner - after a short while in our room we felt rude so went into the kitchen and asked if we could help - in Quechua! But they just said no and told us to sit down so we sat there for a while until was ready. I felt a bit rude but they have people come to stay twice a week so I guess they are used to it. We had corn soup, with potatoes, peppers, and pumpkin. Then a kind of casserole of potatoes, carrots and cheese with rice. All really delicious - and then lots of munja tea!

In the evening they hold a party for the tourists and they dress us up in their clothes. I have to say THE most unflattering garment in existence. Two voluminous skirts that come right up to your chest with an embroidered shirt underneath. Then a woven belt wrapped tightly under your chest. We all looked massive and we had our jeans and walking shoes udnerneath.. what a look! But it was loads of fun and we all met in the hall where we danced with the locals. They had 2 bands very traditional - lots of windpipes etc but it was great.

It rained all night and I was a little bit cold despite my thermals and loads of blankets. For breakfast we had pancakes made on the fire! Then our Mama walked us back down the hill to board the boat!

On our way back to Puno we stopped at the Uros Islands. They are floating islands made of the reeds that grow in the lake. There are loads of them, all with about 3 or 4 families or maybe more living on them. Everything is woven from reeds - houses, boats, seats, towers etc. They have been living there for about 580 years, and they add more reeds to the island every 3 or so weeks as the ones at the bottom eventually rot. After a quick explore and look in one of the houses we got a boat - balsa - to another island and had another quick walk around before having lunch on the boat and coming back to Puno.

Jen, Ria and I were thrilled to come back to civilisation - as great as it was, it felt like we had been away from real toilets and electricity for ages! Taking it easy for the rest of today and tomorrow we get a bus to Cusco! The longest continually inhabited city in South America and the start of the Inca Trail!

xx